THE EYE CONTOUR AREA — TYPICAL PROBLEMS AND INNOVATIVE TREATMENTS

The eyes are the most dominant part of our face. They are the mirrors of the soul, attest to our personality and express feelings. When the skin in the eye area is welltreated and nourished, the face looks vital and radiant. Yet, this area is also the first to disclose the various age signs. The unique characteristics of the eye contour area, which set it apart from the rest of the facial skin, are the reason for this.

The skin in the eye contour area is much more delicate and much thinner than the rest of the facial areas. In fact, the thickness of the skin in the eye contour reaches on average a fourth of the thickness in the other areas. While the thickness of the skin is usually 2 millimeters on average, the thickness of the skin around the eyes is only 0.5 millimeters, and it includes a very thin layer of subcutaneous fat. As a result, it is more delicate and vulnerable to the accumulated influence of environmental damages, including the effects of the solar radiation, winds, extreme cold, air conditioners
and more.

In addition, unlike other areas, there are no sebaceous glands in the eye contour area and therefore, it is fatfree and more disposed to dryness. The thin layer of the subcutaneous fat in this area combined with capillaries that are very dense, makes it more predisposed to
puffiness. 

The common and particularly bothersome problems in this area include wrinkles and fine lines, black circles, bags and puffiness, as well as sunken eyes. Let us uncover the causes for these problems and the ways they can be treated.

Wrinkles and Fine Lines Around the Eyes

The area of the eye contour is characterized by ample movement, since we tend to perform a great number of facial gestures using our eyes, oftentimes without even being aware of the fact. These actions cause the contraction of the orbicularis oculi muscle—a circular shaped muscle that encircles the eye—and constitute the main cause for wrinkles and fine lines in the corners of the eyes (crow’s feet) and between the eyebrows. The causes for the premature appearance of these
wrinkles and fine lines are diversified:

• Increased exposure to the sun – this is the main cause for the appearance of wrinkles in general and not only in the eye area, but it significantly affects this thin and delicate skin. The damage caused by the rays of the sun is manifested by the appearance of free radicals in the skin. These active molecules have a destructive effect on the skin cells and the connective tissue.

• Vision problems – in order to overcome problems of near-sightedness and far-sightedness, we tend to blink and squint, and as a result, we accelerate the appearanceof wrinkles in the corners of the
eye (“crow’s feet”).

• Smoking – numerous studies have found that smokers are more predisposed to the premature appearance of “crow’s feet”, since smoking increases the activity of the free radicals, and in addition, causes increased blinking due to the irritation of the eyes by the cigarette smoke.

• Improper care – when the skin in the area of the eye contour is dry and is unnourished, its elasticity decreases, and therefore, the influence of the facial gestures increases, accumulates with time, and gives our eyes a tired, sagging and wrinkled look.

 Bags and Puffiness Under the Eyes 

The main cause for the appearance of “bags” under the eyes is genetic. In this condition, which develops gradually, the skin beneath the eyes first become saggy and dwindled. Later, the fat that lines the lower eyelid begins to move from its place and slides downward into the empty hollow created by the dwindling of the skin. In such case, the solution is a cosmetic surgery, in which the fat is removed from the skin and the skin is stretched. In contrast to the “bags”, puffiness beneath the eyes can be caused by variousdiseases and additional causes, such as:

• Kidney diseases

• Excessive alcohol consumption, which burdens the kidneys, whose role is to filter the fluids in the body.

• Excessive consumption of salt, which also causes edema and fluid retention.

• Hypertension and various diseases that damage the lymphatic drainage.

• Temporary factors, such as sleep deprivation, prolonged crying, and the use of unsuitable
cosmetic products.

Black Circles

The appearance of dullness under the eyes stems from the reflection of the blood in the capillaries in this area, which is covered by a dense net of blood vessels. While in the arteries the color of the oxygen-rich hemoglobin is red, in the veins, the color of the hemoglobin after releasing the oxygen varies from purplish-blue to brown. Since the skin in the eye contour is very thin and the capillaries are delicate, these pigments are reflected and create the appearance of dark circles that
encircle the eye. There are diversified reasons for this phenomenon as well, since the delicate blood vessels
respond with increased sensitivity to various factors:

• Genetics – expressed by a structural problem of the blood vessels and/or especially thin and
transparent skin.

• Anemia and vitamin deficiency – studies have found that iron deficiency is a central cause for the appearance of dullness in the area of the eye contour. In addition, anemia and vitamin deficiency cause paleness, which makes the capillaries beneath the skin even more salient.

• Dehydration – insufficient drinking causes the shrinking of the blood vessels in the area, and as a result, the blood in the shrunken capillaries is more concentrated and salient.

• Sleep deprivation – fatigue and sleep deprivation damage the blood flow, a fact that also leads to a higher concentration of the blood in the capillaries
around the eyes.

• Smoking – smoking is a known cause for damage to the function of the blood vessels. In addition to the insertion of various toxins into the blood stream, it also damages the blood flow. This happens of course in all areas of the body, but it is especially salient in the delicate blood vessels of the eye contour.

Sunken Eyes

This common problem is caused by the skin’s aging process as a result of the gradual absorption of the subcutaneous fat in the area. However, it also appears among young people, as a result of a congenital structure or due to the absorption of fat following a drastic loss of weight. For some people, the hollows also create an illusion of darkness beneath the eyes, with the darkness actually being the shadow of the lower eyelid.

How to Reduce the Appearance of the Damages and Inhibit the Age Signs in the Area of the Eye Contour

A regular care routine is not enough to protect this thin and delicate area. In order to prevent the premature appearance of the damages, it is important to
meticulously abide by the following rules:

• Use products that are specifically designated for the eye area – in recent years, designated products that are specifically suited for this area have been developed. hese products are based on ingredients that operate to improve the lymphatic drainage, increase the moisture, reduce puffiness and bags under the eyes, decrease and mooth out the wrinkles. Therefore, for example, unique peptides, such as acetyl tetrapeptide-5 and hexapeptide-10, operate to improve the blood flow and lymphaticdrainage. Thus, they act to significantly reduce the bags and black circles, decrease the black circles and strengthen and firm the skin beneath the eye area. nother efficient ingredient is caffeine, which has been proven to have the ability to stimulate the cells’ activity and the blood and lymph flow, thus facilitating the

drainageof the fluids from the interstitial compartment and the reduction of the puffiness and bags. In addition, antioxidants and antiinflammation ingredients, such as green tea and calendula, assist in caring for the delicate skin and facilitate the neutralization of the free radicals’ activity.

• Avoid using unsuitable cosmetic products – some of the care products may be too active and/or high in fat for this area. As a result, they may cause a problem in the ymphatic drainage, edema, and the appearance of bags under the eyes. In addition, the over-stimulation by unsuitable products may cause inflammation that also contributes to the aging of the skin.

• Protect the eye contour from the solar radiation— use sunglasses that protect from the UV radiation in the summer and in the winter, and apply sunscreen around the eyes as well. Studies indicate that this is one of the areas that most people tend to forget, and therefore expose it to the sun’s damages.

• Make sure to get sufficient sleep – as mentioned, sleep deprivation contributes to the puffiness and tired appearance of the eye area.

• Maintain a healthy nutrition – in order to provide a sufficient quantity of vitamins and minerals.

• Limit the consumption of salt – decrease the consumption of processed foods that contain large amounts of salt. In contrast, increase the consumption of diuretic foods, such as parsley and asparagus, which reduce edema and swelling.

• Consume alcohol in moderation – moderate amounts of alcohol can be health-beneficial, but it is important to avoid excessive alcohol
consumption.

• Undergo periodic eye checks – and when necessary, get fitted with eyeglasses.

 Designated Treatments for the Eye Contour Area 

These days, advanced osmetic roducts offer effective solutions that help reduce expression wrinkles and fine lines around the eyes, strengthen the skin structure,

facilitate its firming, increase the level of moisture and improve its pliability. A substantial emphasis is placed at HL Laboratories on the treatment of the eye contour
area. In order to care for and rehabilitate the eye contour area, HL has developed designated products based on ingredients specifically suited for this delicate and sensitive area, which assist the achievement of effective results without causing irritation or damage to the skin.

C THE SUCCESS is a line that operates to decelerate the skin’s aging process, to repair and rehabilitate damages and aging signs caused by processes related to age and accumulated exposure to the sun. The products of the line contain an active combination of vitamin C, orange oil and grapefruit extract, which operate to impede the skin’s aging processes, to reduce the depth of the wrinkles and fine lines, to firmand grant a radiant, even skin tone.

The line includes:

C THE SUCCESS INTENSIVE EYE CREAM, which is based on vitamin C, and operates to nourish, strengthen the collagen and elastin fibers, diminish expression
lines, and provides the area of the eye contour with intensive moisture.

PERFECT TIME is a line that provides an accurate response for the needs of mature skin. The line’s products are based on quality ingredients, innovative lipopeptides

and essential amino acids, which operate to increase the volume of the subcutaneous fat, and thus, to fill the wrinkles and smoothen the skin. Moreover, the line’s products firm and strengthen the contour lines of the face, neck and décolleté, and grant a tighter and younger look.

The line includes PERFECT TIME ANTI-WRINKLE EYE CREAM, a cream enriched with caffeine and lipopeptides that operates to reduce wrinkles and blur puffiness in the eye contour area, and grants a radiant young look.

JUVELAST is an innovative and highly effective linefor the rehabilitation and nourishment of dry skin. The line is based on an HL exclusive patent called DNA
CoFactor, which was scientifically tested and proven in clinical studies to be especially efficient in the improvement of the skin texture and the reduction of the depth of wrinkles.

The line includes JUVELAST NOURISHING EYE CREAM – an eye cream for nourishing the skin and blurring expression lines and puffiness in the eye contour
area. The cream is based on a copper-peptide complex and a liposome from an extract of the Arabidopsis plant, which neutralizes the damages of free radicals.
In addition, it contains cupuaçu and murumuru butters to soften the skin and improve pliability, Brazil nut oil rich in omega-6 and omega-9, as well as peptides and ceramides to reduce wrinkles.

DERMALIGHT is a powerful therapeutic line for lightening spots and hyperpigmentation. The line is based on acids, active ingredients and additional lightening substances, which significantly increase the treatment’s efficiency and contribute to the lightening of the skin and the creation of an even
skin tone.

The line includes DERMALIGHT CORRECTIVE EYE CREAM WITH/WITHOUT MAKE-UP – a cream enriched with caffeine and quinoa extract to reduce puffiness
and darkness under the eyes, a copper complex to reduce deep wrinkles, and vitamin C to grant an even
and radiant look.

Summer is almost over, and now is the time to treat the Sun’s damages (Facial and décolleté), and lighten the pigmentation spots. Which treatments are the most effective for lightening and regeneration of the skin? 

The main cause for hyper pigmentation spots is the accumulated exposure to the sun’s ultra-violet radiation, which leads to changes in the melanin, the skin pigment that determines its tone. These spots are considered as one of the complex challenges for treatment in the field of skin aesthetics. Nevertheless, the advanced cosmetic companies have developed in recent years a variety of solutions that enable to lighten the skin and effectively treat hyperpigmentation. The most effective solutions treat the root of the problem—solutions that intervene in the mechanisms by which the spots are formed. 

Ingredients that Operate on the Enzyme Tyrosinase

One of the main treatment focuses is tyrosinase— the enzyme responsible for the production of melanin. This enzyme produces melanin from the amino acid tyrosine. When we are exposed to the sun, tyrosinase accelerates the production of melanin in the melanocytes to protect the skin, and thus, the skin becomes darker. The problem is, that the dispersion of the pigment’s particles is not always even, and sometimes the color particles accumulate in a certain area. Thus, dark spots or areas of hyperpigmentation are created upon the skin. The more prolonged and accumulative the sun exposure, the more the spots and hyperpigmentation spots multiply and become more permanent, severe and salient.

By inhibiting the production of tyrosinase in the skin, it is, therefore, possible to impede the production of melanin, thus influencing the pigmentation phenomenon. Several ingredients have been proven to have the ability to inhibit the enzyme and reduce its efficiency: 

• Arbutin— a plant derivative of hydroquinone, which inhibits the production of melanin in the skin. Arbutin is produced from the leaves of the bearberry, redcurrant, blueberry and cranberry plants, as well as other berries. Its operation mechanism is based on the inhibition of the enzyme tyrosinase, which accelerates the production of melanin during exposure to the sun.
• Kojic Acid—an acid produced by mold fungi, such as penicillium or aspergillus, which also constitutes a by-product of the fermentation process of malting rice or in the manufacturing process of sake— the Japanese rice wine.

• Azelaic Acid—this acid is produced from wheat, barley or rye grains.

• Butylresorcinol— a derivative of the substance alkylresorcinol, which has also been proven in studies to be a very powerful tyrosinase inhibitor.

Retinol

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A—a vitamin that is vital for cellular differentiation. The application of retinoic acid onto the skin accelerates the pace of the cell division and leads to a rapid renewal of the skin surface, thus creating an effect that resembles peeling. Retinol also assists in the regulation of the melanin production, and studies have proven that it can repair accumulated skin damages that appear following exposure to the sun and to dramatically lighten hyper pigmentation spots. 

Vitamin C

In addition to its great efficiency in treating age damages, clinical studies have proven that vitamin C has an important role in the inhibition of uncontrolled production of melanin and in the reduction of hyper pigmentation spots since it impedes the oxidation phase in the melanin production.

Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids

These acids operate by exfoliating the dead skin cells accumulated on the stratum corneum, thus enabling the shedding of the dead skin cells, encouraging the growth of new skin cells and the creation of new epidermis tissue, whose texture and tone are denser, evener, and healthier. In addition, it has been found that the natural alpha and beta hydroxy acids, produced from fruits and milk, instigate changes in the skin that stimulate the production of collagen and elastin in the dermis layer.

Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is fat-soluble and therefore manages to penetrate the pores that contain the sebum and exfoliate dead skin cells, which accumulate in them and clog them. Moreover, it has anti-inflammatory processes. 

There is evidence indicating that treatments, which combine tyrosinase inhibitors, such as arbutin and kojic acid, and alpha and beta hydroxy acids, and mainly peelings using alpha and beta hydroxy acids, lead to especially effective results in the lightening of the skin and the repairing of sun damages. 

Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA)

Studies have found that the use of products that contain ALA on the skin assists in the fight against hyper pigmentation. This acid facilitates the inhibition of tyrosinase. Furthermore, it improves the skin’s texture damaged by the sun. However, it is especially effective in the lightening of dark spots when combined with other ingredients. 

When considering which treatment to choose, the depth of the hyper pigmentation should be taken into account. In most cases, the accumulation of the pigment is in the epidermis, and lightening treatments with products that operate to inhibit the tyrosinase will efficiently get the job done. When the accumulation is deeper, it is important to combine these with peeling treatments based on alpha and beta hydroxy acids.

At HL Laboratories, we are aware of the need for an effective solution for the lightening and hyperpigmentation issues. Therefore, we developed highly effective products, which are based on sophisticated combinations of these active ingredients, such as DERMALIGHT, ALPHA-BETA WITH RETINOL, and C THE SUCCESS. Combined treatment with the products of these lines creates therapeutic synergy, which enables an particularly high level of efficiency, and grants an immediate and impressive change in the skin’s appearance, and at the same time, long-term results.

DERMALIGHT—a unique line based on a complex of plant extracts, kojic acid, azelaic acid, mandelic acid, vitamin C, and arbutin.

The line operates with great efficiency to blur hyper-pigmentation spots and to lighten the skin; it is based on remarkably active and high-quality raw materials that grant visible results.

The combination of the lightening substances, the acids, and the additional active ingredients significantly enhance the treatment’s efficiency and contribute to the lightening of the skin and the creation of an even skin tone.

ALPHA-BETA WITH RETINOL 

Designed for the regeneration of the facial skin reaching impressive results. The professional peeling products are based on natural alpha-hydroxy acids, produced from fruits and milk, combined with beta hydroxy acid and additional active ingredients. Their synergetic operation enables to achieve highly impressive effects, with long-term results, using a safe treatment that does not cause burns or trauma to the skin, the patient can continue a normal routine. 

C THE SUCCESS 

Designed to delay the aging process, repair and rehabilitate skin damages and premature signs of aging, caused by age-related processes and the accumulated exposure to the sun. The line’s products contain an active combination of vitamin C, mandarin oil and hamamelis, and operate to impede the skin’s aging processes, to reduce the depths of wrinkles and fine lines, and to achieve smoother and more pliable skin, with a lighter, even tone. The combination of the ingredients operates to reduce the damage caused to the skin by free radicals found in UV radiation and in additional environmental damagers, and simultaneously leads to the accelerated production and proper reorganization of the collagen and elastin fibers. In addition, it contributes to the rehabilitation of additional natural mechanisms responsible for the repairing and healing of the skin. In this manner, they operate to reduce the depths of wrinkles and fine lines, soothe the skin, lighten and improve it’s tone, texture, and appearance. The result: the reduction of the depth of the wrinkles and fine lines and the continuous improvement in their appearance; improvement in the skin’s pliability and softness; a lighter, evener skin tone; the lightening of sun and age spots. 

Men’s skincare routine has changed profoundly in recent years. Whereas in the past male skincare mostly consisted of aftershave use,

men today make sure to apply a moisturizer, eye cream and serum, use powerful peels and undergo advanced facial treatments at the cosmetic salon. Male skin
has unique features, which are manifested by the skin’s anatomic structure and texture, and influence its appearance, aging pace and various skin phenomena.  

On the one hand, the men’s skin tissue is usually thicker than women’s, and therefore, the skin’s aging process is more gradual. On the other, compared to women,
there is a greater mass of expression muscles in men’s faces, and the muscles themselves are thicker and more massive. As a result, the wrinkles on men’s faces are
deeper. 

In addition, male skin is richer in hair follicles, has large sebaceous glands, and is therefore prone to enlarged pores, increased sebaceous secretion and papules.
Daily shaving damages the epidermal barrier andcauses the exfoliation of the upper layer of cells in the epidermis layer, which constitute the skin’s natural
protection. Consequently, many men experience facial skin phenomena that includes increased sensitivity,
redness and skin rash.

HL Laboratories has identified the need for products designated for the male facial skin. To address this need, we developed the B FIRST line— an innovative product line based on advanced formulas. The line is designed for men’s daily skincare, and facilitates the deceleration of the aging process and the improvement

of the skin texture, thus granting the skin a healthy look.
The line’s products are based on innovative ingredients, including plant components with healing, rejuvenating, moisturizing and soothing properties, as well as antiinflammatory, antiseptic and antibacterial properties. Among them are chamomile and aloe vera, which operate to soothe the skin, allantoin that prevents
irritations and improves the skin’s ability to preserve moisture, rich and nourishing natural oils, peptides, fatty acids, vitamins and antioxidants, which operate to
decelerate the skin’s aging process.
The line’s products have a light texture, are quickly absorbed by the skin and do not leave an oily shine. The rich composition of the products provides the required

skincare for grooming and assists in the deceleration of the skin’s aging process. The regular use of the line’s
products will reduce skin irritation and grant a sleek and healthy look.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Carnosine – a peptide that serves as a powerful antioxidant, which prevents the destruction of the skin cells damaged by environmental causes, and in addition,
accelerates the tissues’ healing and regeneration processes. 

Silymarin – an extract produced of Milk Thistle, a fatsoluble antioxidant that operates to protect the skin cells and neutralizes toxins, and also facilitates the deceleration of the skin’s aging process.

 Vitamin E – inhibits the glycation processes and the oxidation processes that are destructive for the cells. 

Arnica montana – an extract that contains phytochemical compounds considered by traditional medicine as effective in the treatment of injuries and
skin problems, as well as for soothing the skin and reducing inflammation and redness.
Chamomile and hamamelis – plants with soothing and lesion-healing properties.
Green tea – an extract from the camellia sinensis plant, which has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.
Allantoin – enhances the skin’s ability to preserve moisture, facilitates the prevention of skin irritations, and provides a softening and moisturizing effect.
Collagen and elastin – produced from a marine source and have a unique composition of amino acids, which restore the skin’s pliability and firmness that diminish
with time.

IN PRACTICE
The combination of the peptides, milk thistle plant, collagen and elastin, along with active ingredients that assist the soothing of the skin, effectively operates to
nourish, soften, soothe and firm the skin, as well as to decelerate its aging process.

THE RESULT
Soothes the skin after shaving and provides relief in cases of irritated skin Nourishes and increases moisture level Improves the skin’s pliability and firmness
Decelerates the aging process Renews the skin’s texture Decreases the depth of wrinkles and blurs age signs

TARGET AUDIENCE
The line is designated for a wide range of male skin types.

B FIRST PRODUCT LINE
HL brand expends B FIRST – an innovative product line, based on advanced formulas and designed for men’s daily skincare.
The product line facilitates the deceleration of the aging process and the improvement of the skin texture, thus granting the skin a healthy look.

B FIRST ANTI-AGE GEL SOAP
Anti-age gel soap, for a thorough cleansing of the skin. Contains vitamin E as a powerful anti-oxidant. Contains urea and chamomile
to increase level of moisture and soothe the skin. Prevents a sensation of dryness.

BFIRST ANTI-AGE SERUM
Anti-age Serum, operates to nourish, calm and slow down skin aging. Enriched with a blend containing peptides, operates
to reduce wrinkles’ depth, vitamin E as a powerful anti-oxidant, and plant extract produced from Milk Thistle to slow down
the aging process. Contains yeast extract to support the collagen and elastin fibers, and soothing ingredients: Aloe-Vera, chamomile and green tea.

B FIRST ANTI-AGE CREAM
A unique anti-age cream operates to nourish the skin, improve elasticity and blur the appearance of wrinkles. Enriched with a blend containing peptides, operates
to reduce wrinkles’ depth, vitamin E as a powerful anti-oxidant, and plant extract produced from Milk Thistle to slow down the aging process. Contains sorbitol to
moisture and soften the skin, collagen and elastin for the elasticity and firming of the skin and for a healthy and fresh appearance.

B FIRST ANTI-AGE EYE CREAM
Anti-age eye cream operates to nourish the skin and blur expression lines. Enriched with a blend containing peptides to firm
the skin, reduce wrinkles and smooth the eye contour area skin. Contains panthenol to improve skin texture, collagen and
elastin for the elasticity and firming of the skin, and for a healthy and fresh appearance.

B FIRST ANTI-AGE AFTER SHAVE BALM
A nourishing light-texture emulsion operates to soothe the skin, specially follow shaving. Enriched with Aloe-Vera,
chamomile and green tea which operate to soothe the skin, and 3 natural oils:
calendula, olive and almonds, which operate to nourish the skin and slow down the aging process.

The ultraviolet (UV) rays constitute 5% of the sun’s radiation. The exposure to this radiation is essential for the production of vitamin D in our bodies, which is responsible for the proper function of numerous systems in the body and for the prevention of multiple diseases. However, prolonged and accumulated exposure to this radiation is the central cause for the appearance of the photoaging damages, the acceleration of the skin’s aging and the premature appearance of wrinkles, pigmentation, spots and other sun damages. In addition, it may lead to the development of cancerous tumors on the skin, and constitutes the main environmental cause for skin damages and all types of skin cancer. In fact, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) of the World Health Organization has classified the ultraviolet radiation, as well as UV radiation emitting devices and tanning beds, as carcinogenic to humans (Group 1), with evidence associating them with melanoma and other types of skin cancer.

How exactly does the UV radiation cause skin damages, and how can the skin be protected from its damaging effect? These questions, as well as the subject of the awareness to the prevention of sun damages, were addressed by the United States Preventive Services Task Force’s (USPST) report, published in 2018. The report, which examined the latest studies regarding the connection between exposure to the ultraviolet (UV) radiation, skin damages and skin cancer, notes that the damage to the skin occurs through the damage to the skin cell’s DNA that leads to cell mutations. Each degree of tanning or skin tone changes following the exposure to this radiation represents damage to the cells, especially when accompanied by burns, blisters or pain—and mainly when occurring at a young age.

There are three types of ultraviolet rayes, classified according to their wavelength: UVA, UVB, and UVC, when the majority of the damage is caused by the UVA and UVB rays. Although the UVC rays, which have the shortest wavelength, have the most dangerous potential, they are predominantly absorbed by the ozone layer, and therefore do not reach the Earth’s surface. In contrast, the UVB rays, which have a medium wavelength, are completely absorbed in the epidermis, and they are the ones that cause visible damage—sunburns, redness, pain and blisters. The UVA rays, which are the longest, do not cause visible damages, but they do penetrate the dermis layer and cause damage to the skin cells’ DNA and the generation of pro-inflammatory components, which lead to the destruction of the collagen and elastin proteins. Besides skin cancer, these damages are expressed by a variety of skin damages such as skin spots of various degrees and types – including freckles, age spots, melasma spots, moles and hypopigmentation spots. Damages and changes in the blood vessels in the skin, the development of inflammation and skin problems such as rosacea, are also results of sun exposure. Besides these damages, sun exposure can encourage the early appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Therefore, the protection from the UVB and UVA rays is particularly important.

Multiple studieshave unequivocally proven that the best protection strategies include: avoiding sun exposure during the hottest part of the day, during which the radiation levels are especially high; in the event of going out into the sun during those hours, wearing clothes and a hat in order to protect the skin, and using sunscreens, such which grant protection both from the UVA rays and the UVB rays. According to the studies, the sunscreens’ mechanism of action is based on their ability to protect certain genes, which operate to repair the damages of the radiation in the skin right when the damage occurs, and thus, in effect, they not only prevent the development of skin cancer, but also the premature aging of the skin and the appearance of various skin damages.

However, it turns out that despite extensive information campaigns led by health authorities in recent years, the awareness to the risks of exaggerated exposure to the sun is not high enough, especially among young populations, and there is also insufficient awareness to behaviors that prevent sun damages and to the use of sunscreens. Thus, for example, a study published in 2018 in journal Pediatric Dermatology, examined the behaviors that prevent sun damages among adolescents and young adults, and found that they rarely use sunscreens. Moreover, according to the United States Preventive Services Task Force’s report, even doctors’ awareness to the need to advise their patients regarding the use of sunscreens and the prevention of sun damages is very low. A survey included in the report found that doctors mentioned the need to use sunscreens in merely 0.7% of their appointments with patients in the clinic. Moreover, it was found that doctors mainly discussed the need to use sunscreens with their elderly patients, and in comparison, only rarely discussed this topic with their young patients, of all others, who are the ones frequently exposed to the sun.

An additional problem referred to by the report, and which was found by many studies in recent years, is that even when people use sunscreens, they do it incorrectly.

Firstly, they often fail to apply a sufficient amount of the product, and as a result, it does not provide enough protection. In order for the product to provide optimal protection, it is important to apply a sufficient amount of it—2 milligrams of sunscreen for every 2 square centimeters of skin (2 mg/cm2). In spite of this, it was found that most people apply amounts that are between a quarter to half of the recommended amount.

Secondly, many people use sunscreens with an SPF that is too low. The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a measure that expresses the product’s skin protection ability through the screening of the radiation. This measure is defined as the ratio between the amounts of radiation that causes redness in the protected skin compared to unprotected skin. Namely, how much longer does it take until the appearance of redness due to the exposure to the UV radiation while using the sunscreen, in comparison to skin to which sunscreen was not applied. For example, 15 SPF multiplies the time it takes the sun to burn the skin by ten. The meaning is that light skin, which is burned without protection after 10 minutes of exposure, will be burnt in the same rate after 150 minutes (approximately two and a half hours) when protected with sunscreen. Studies from recent years indicate that sunscreens with a high SPF provide much more efficient protection from the sun compared to products with a relatively low SPF. As a result of these studies, the health authorities in the world have changed their regulations in the past few years, and they now recommend using products with a relatively high SPF, starting from 30, and advisably even 50 and more. Products with 6–10 SPF are considered to have lower protection and manufacturers are required to include a warning on the labels of the products containing 6-15 SPF that states: “Reduces burn risk; does not prevent skin cancer”. Products with 15-25 SPF are considered to have a medium level of protection and products with 30-50 SPF are considered to have a high level of protection. Finally, products with 50 or more SPF are considered to have a very high level of protection.

The sunscreen must be applied to all of the exposed skin areas, and especially on the face, tips of the ears, neck and décolletage, and also to the hairless areas on men’s scalps, and this should be done 15–30 minutes before going out to the sun. It is recommended to reapply the sunscreen every 2–3 hours. Furthermore, it is necessary to reapply the sunscreen after every activity that may cause its removal, such as, swimming, face washing, perspiration, etc. For women, it is recommended to use, in addition to the sunscreen, makeup that contains SPF.

The term “sensitive skin” refers to unpleasant sensory responses instigated upon the skin’s exposure to substances that are not supposed to trigger such reactions. The manifestations include a vast variety of symptoms, starting from redness and itching, through sensations of stinging or burning, tingling, discomfort, pain, dryness, scaling and pimples, and ending with skin diseases such as psoriasis, seborrhea, rosacea and atopic dermatitis. According to a study published in May 2019 in the journal Frontiers in Medicine, the prevalence of this phenomenon is extremely high: 60–70% of women and 50–60% of men report having some degree of sensitive skin. The subjective sensory response to the stimulus is not always accompanied by other visible objective signs. In order to correctly diagnose and treat sensitive skin, it is important to understand the characteristics of this skin type and the reasons for the sensitivity.

Sensitive Skin Versus Allergic Skin

Many people who suffer from skin sensitivity may think they are allergic. However, there are significant differences between the two problems. Allergy is the immune system’s overreaction to a certain stimulus. In cutaneous allergies, an immune response is triggered as the skin comes into contact with the particles of the allergen (the cause of the allergy), and leads to the appearance of inflammation upon the skin. This response is a delayed response—namely, a certain time span, ranging between a few hours to two days, passes from the moment of contact with the allergen until the detection of the allergic response in the place of contact. In most cases, the process is initially latent, and the inflammation appears only upon the reoccurring exposure to the substance. Conversely, skin sensitivity is the outcome of a variety of causes, which include genetic and environmental causes. The sensitivity may be congenital, or, alternatively, may develop gradually throughout life or appear suddenly. Among some of the people who suffer from the problem, the neurons found under the skin surface are more sensitive. Among many others, the sensitivity stems from damage to the skin’s protective barrier, instigated by the exposure to various environmental causes such as the sun’s radiation and air pollution, or by chemicals, drugs and different detergents. Several studies have found that, among people with sensitive skin, the number of ceramides in the stratum corneum is significantly lower in comparison to people who do not report about skin sensitivity. These lipid molecules, found in high concentrations in the membranes that surround the cells, constitute one of the fatty components of the intercellular cement, which binds the skin cells in the stratum corneum and creates the skin barrier. Therefore, the decrease in the number of ceramides leads to damage to the skin barrier, and as a result, to the skin’s increased sensitivity. It is important to note that skin sensitivity is not necessarily a permanent condition. A considerable number of people with sensitive skin report about increased sensitivity during periods of stress and tension, in the transitional seasons or on days with extreme weather.

Products for Sensitive Skin: A Meticulous Development Process and Stringent Tests

In light of the high prevalence of the condition, some of the cosmetic companies choose to develop designated products that help cope with the condition, prevent irritation and assist in soothing and rehabilitating the skin. These products operate for a natural rehabilitation of the skin by stimulating the natural repair process of damaged cells and by accelerating the cell regeneration. In addition, they aid in the reduction of pain, redness, inflammation and swelling of the skin.

The R&D process of products designated for sensitive skin is extremely meticulous. Each of the components used in these products is carefully selected in order to address the skin’s needs of soothing and rehabilitation. Moreover, since the damage to the skin barrier is one of the main causes for the problems, the designated products contain neutral acidity (PH=5.5), so as not tocompromise the balance of the skin’s protective layer. In addition, in order to establish the claim that the products are designated for sensitive skin, these products undergo a very rigorous process of approval with the Ministry of Health, in accordance with its stringent regulations (as well as the regulations of the other health authorities). According to these regulations, the products are bound by rigorous clinical tests, in order to test the development of skin irritations caused by their use. The manufacturing company is permitted to print the statement “For Sensitive Skin” on the packaging only after a designated product successfully passes these tests. In the “sensitive skin” test, at least 10 out of the minimum number of 50 participants in the clinical trial have to be people defined in advance as people who have sensitive skin. As such, this test is considered to be even more stringent than the hypoallergic test, performed on a group of participants without initially testing if they suffer from allergies. These clinical tests take place in research institutions, and are executed by dermatologists, who must receive the Ministry of Health’s authorization to conduct them. In the test, a small amount of the tested product or raw material (0.07 to 0.1 ml. or grams) is applied onto the upper surface of the subject’s arm, or alternatively, onto the subject’s back, between the shoulders. A surgical pad is placed on top, and the area is bandaged with a sealing bandage for 48 hours. After 48 hours, the cutaneous response is assessed. The reading of the results is rated from 0 to 4, starting from the absence of a response, through redness, redness accompanied by stiffening, and ending with the development of blisters and vesicles. Only a product that successfully passes the clinical test receives the Ministry of Health’s approval to note that it is destined for sensitive skin, with the sensitivity test being recorded in the product’s license certificate. Such product will receive a dedicated cosmetic license, as opposed to a general cosmetics license.

YOUR FORMULA FOR SUCCESS

FOR OVER 35 YEARS

On September 9, 2019 we held an annual convention to meet our most important target audience—the cosmeticians.

The convention was held at the luxurious Ocean Events Center in Tel Aviv. Over 300 cosmeticians, from all over Israel and many national distributors centers also attended.

The convention’s slogan was “Your Formula for Success for 35 Years” as this date also represents the 35th anniversary of Pharma Cosmetics foundation.

The main theme of the convention was the launch of CALM DERM line, which received the Ministry of Health’s approval for suitable products for sensitive skin.

The convention offered a combination of professional and business contents, along with amusing activities the invitees participated in.

Dr. Marina Landau, a dermatology specialist, gave a lecture about the treatment approach to common skin diseases, and also about the holistic approach to skin aging, as well as on the ways of treating it. Dr. Landau emphasized the importance of cosmetic treatments and the domestic skincare routine, in conjunction with medication administered by application, and also elaborated on the topic of skin aging while referring to photoaging and biological aging.

Mira Bartfeld and Ilana Ben Shirit conducted a training session that included a complete treatment protocol for the CALM DERM line. The session was filmed and screened at the event hall for the participant’s convenience. They focused on the line’s products and described their benefits, and also enriched the audience with information about HL’s various peeling products—both for treatment at the salon and for domestic care.

After an especially lavish lunch, Nir Duvdevani, one of the most proclaimed mentors for the maximization of sales and business optimization in Israel, came up to the stage. Duvdevani spoke to the audience about the winning combination between consciousness, method and practice and having personal and business success, enriched the audience with practical tools for success, encouraged them to ask questions and even come up to the stage to perform practical simulations.

We would like to thank all of the cosmeticians, national distributors and the guests from abroad who came especially for the convention. It was very heartwarming to meet everyone. See you at the next convention!

Tips for the Proper Sunscreen Use

1. Asufficient amount— it is recommended to apply a generous amount, about one teaspoon of sunscreen for the entire area of the face, ears and neck.
2. Not only in the summer — in the summer, the awareness to the application of sunscreens is relatively high. However, most people tend to skip the use of these products during the rest of the year, and especially on cloudy days. Yet, we are also exposed to UVA radiation in the winter.
3. A quality product — it is important to ensure that the chosen product provides protection both from the UVA radiation and the UVB radiation, and in addition, that the product has a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15. In cases of prolonged exposure to the sun, a product which has a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30 must be used.
4. Early use — it is necessary to first apply the sunscreen thirty minutes prior to the sun exposure. Moreover, it is recommended to apply it twice, consecutively, in order to create a generous and uniform layer of sunscreen to cover all of the body parts exposed to the sun.
5. All day protection — during prolonged exposure to the sun, it is recommended to renew the sunscreen application every two hours. In the event of perspiration, going into the water and/or wiping the skin with a towel, it is recommended to renew the application.
6. Safe driving — although the carwindows block most of the UVB radiation, they are unable to block the UVA radiation. Therefore, it is also recommended to use sunscreens while driving.
7. A moisturizer with sunscreen is not enough! — it is important to apply sunscreen and not only settle for a moisturizer that contains sunscreens.
8. And what about the ears and back of the neck? — it is important to make sure to apply sunscreen onto all of the areas exposed to the sun. Many users tend to neglect certain areas of the body, such as the ears and the back of the neck.

The wedding season is already in full swing. For your skin to look its best on the day of the event, beforehand preparation and long-term treatment is essential. However, a dramatic improvement in appearance can also be achieved in the days leading up to the event.

Here are some tips for immediate results:

• A moisture boost – the chief step to be taken is giving the skin a moisture boost , which leads to a firmer, softer, more pliable and radiant look. HL’s VITALISE Moisturizing Mask will grant your skin the optimal moisture boost. The mask is based on hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan that fulfills a central role in the hydrolipidic system in the skin. Hyaluronic acid’s most eminent characteristic is its ability to bind water to itself and to store it, thus providing the skin with moisture and granting it volume, softness, and pliability. In addition, the mask is enriched with kukui nut oil and macadamia nut oil,

which assist in the preservation of moisture and lead to significant results in increasing moisture levels in the skin and the improvement of its firmness.

Method of use: in the week prior to the event, make sure to use the mask at least twice. Apply an even layer onto clean skin, massage slightly,

and wait for 15–20 minutes until full absorption.

• Exfoliation – in order to regenerate the skin and achieve a smoother, tighter and younger appearance. The SUPERLIFT PEEL was developed at HL for this exact purpose – it is a chemical peel based on alpha-hydroxy acids and retinol, combined with grape and fig extract. The alphahydroxy acids cause the gentle exfoliation of the

skin and lead to the removal of dead skin cells. When combined with the retinol and grape and fig extract,

 it contributes to the quick regeneration of the skin cells and to the improvement of blood flow and oxygen supply to the skin.

• Method of use: in the week prior to the event, apply the peel onto the facial skin, wait 7–10 minutes, and rinse off using lukewarm water.

For brighter skin and an even tone, it is recommended to use an additional exfoliation product – the WHITE PEEL. This unique, gentle peel, which is based on lactic acid and cheese, dissolves the intercellular substance, encourages the regeneration of new and healthy skin cells and in addition creates a lightening effect.

Method of use: apply the peel onto the skin using a brush, cover with compresses soaked in lukewarm water for 7–10 minutes, and rinse off.

•  A mask worth its weight in gold – to complete the treatment and achieve a lifting effect and an even and radiant skin tone, HL has developed the GLOWING MASK. The GLOWING MASK is an innovative gold mask, which significantly improves the skin texture and grants it a glowing look.

Method of use: after removing the peel, apply an even layer of the mask onto the facial skin and neck, and rub in using upward movements. Wait for 15 minutes, and rinse off using warm water. To conclude, apply a suitable moisturizer, according to skin type.

•  Magic drops—in order to improve the skin texture even further, to grant it a silky touch and a smooth basis for the makeup on the day of the event, use the Magic Drops from the RENEW FORMULA line. The drops will grant the skin the final dramatic touch. This unique product is a concentrated compound of highly active ingredients, including alpha-lipoic acid, plant oils and plant extracts, which constitute a natural source for vitamins A, C and E. The drops are quick-absorbing and lead to
  immediate results in the skin, expressed by a silkysoft texture and a vital, radiant appearance. When the drops are applied underneath makeup, they constitute a protective layer that grants the skin a sensation of softness and a smooth and healthy look.

Dr. Marina Landau

Dermatology Specialist

The skin is the largest organ in the human body, accounting for approximately 15% of the overall body weight. It is also entirely visible, and so are all the processes that occur in it. The vast majority of the world’s population has suffered from some type of skin disease at one point or another.

One of the most common skin diseases today is atopic dermatitis or “skin asthma”, which affects approximately 20% of the children. While its incidence slightly decreases with age, it is also very widespread among adults too. The main manifestation of this disease is skin dryness that spans the entire body, accompanied by constant and extreme itching. The disease worsens during winter or in especially dry weather.

Seborrhoeic dermatitis is also a skin disease that is highly prevalent among the population. This disease usually appears during infancy, disappears, and returns during the third-fourth decades of life. Its main manifestation is scaling on the sides of the nose, scalp and frontal hairline, eyebrows, as well as on the skin of the chest and buttocks.

Although psoriasis is considered by most as a “severe” skin disease, it is a disease that affects about 7% of the population and its manifestations are mostly mild. These manifestations include scaling on the elbows and knees and dandruff.

In recent years, sensitive skin has become a common complaint at dermatological clinics. Mainly, this concern people who complain about burning skin that is prone to redness after contact with almost any product. The cause for the constant increase in sensitive skin is not entirely clear.

The treatment of the four diseases mentioned above requires a comprehensive approach—both medical and cosmetic.

Medically wise, all of these conditions require treatment that will decrease the inflammatory process that appears in all of them. Cosmetically wise, the support of the epidermal barrier of the skin—the structure responsible for preserving the moisture in the skin—is required.

The epidermal barrier is a complex structure that includes cells and intercellular substance, who are in accurate balance.

Quality and designated moisturizers, which facilitate the preserving of the epidermal barrier and increase the skin’s moisturizing capability, assist the treatment of this large group of diseases.

Acids are among the most active and effective ingredients in cosmetic products. Hyaluronic acid and alpha and beta hydroxy acids are the most prominent and well-known acids, but they are certainly not the only ones. The following article reviews various acids used in treatments administered at the cosmetic salon and in the field of dermatology as well. 

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a natural substance produced in our skin, which fulfills a key role in the skin’s ability to preserve moisture. As it is a large molecule, its capacity for adsorbing and storing water is high. It can adsorb thousands of water molecules— approximately 1000 times its weight. It operates to repair the skin tissue and to accelerate the processes of healing from injuries and infections. Studies from recent years indicate that hyaluronic acid fulfills a central role in the communication between the cells, in the cell division and migration, and operates as a sort of “courier” that assists in the message transmission between the cells and various substances. This role is extremely important in tissue regeneration and the maintaining of youthful skin. For example, one of the important messages, transmitted by the hyaluronic acid to the fibroblasts, is the need to produce collagen and other components essential for the regeneration of the skin.

Although researchers were already able to successfully isolate hyaluronic acid in the 1930s and realized that it holds a central role in preserving the volume and moisture of the skin, its use in aesthetic medicine began only in 1996. In 2003, the FDA approved the first hyaluronic acid-based dermal filler, and since then, it has become the most common dermal filler in the world in this field.

While the natural hyaluronic acid in our bodies is decomposed in the skin within a few days by an enzyme called hyaluronidase, the hyaluronic acid used in aesthetic medicine to fill wrinkles is relatively durable (6-12 months). The durability is created due to the manufacturing processes that create the cross-linking of the molecules. Such linking decelerates the decomposition of the molecules by enzymes in the skin and enables long-term results.

When the acid is injected into the wrinkles, it operates as a sort of “putty” that fills the wrinkles, and its water-binding ability grants the wrinkles additional volume. In this manner, it stimulates the skin to create collagen in the area of the injection.

In addition to this type of cross-linked hyaluronic acid, there is another type, non-crossing linked hyaluronic acid, also used in aesthetic medicine. This substance is used in mesotherapy treatments: it is inserted into the skin using a tiny needle in a superficial injection and grants an immediate result of vital and radiant skin. Since the acid does not undergo manufacturing processes, it remains in the skin for only several days. However, the injection of small amounts in numerous spots enables its distribution in the skin on a large contact surface, thus creating a substantial reservoir of water in the skin, which remains even after the substance itself vanishes. 

It is important to note that the mere injection and presence of the hyaluronic acid in the skin causes the fibroblasts, the cells that produce the collagen in the skin, to awaken and operate. Besides, today, hyaluronic acid can be found in moisturizers, and this, thanks to its efficiency in the preservation of the moisture between the skin cells in the epidermis. 

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

In recent decades, alpha-hydroxy acids have been proven to be among the most effective cosmetic ingredients for the regeneration and rejuvenation of the skin. Today, peels and products based on these acids hold a central role in the dermatological treatment and the advanced cosmetic treatments for the rejuvenation of the skin, blurring wrinkles and lightening age spots. These acids are produced from various plants and fruit and include glycolic acid (produced from sugar canes), citric acid (produced from citrus fruits), malic acid (produced from apples), tartaric acid (produced from grapes)— or synthetically produced acids based on the natural acids. Another common alpha hydroxy acid is lactic acid, produced from milk.

Many studies that examined the operation of alpha hydroxy acid have demonstrated that when applied to the skin, they encourage the exfoliation of the dead cells on the stratum corneum—the outermost skin layer—through the attachment to and neutralization of the calcium ions found in the connections between those cells. The reduction of the calcium ions’ concentration loosens the ties between the cells and enables their exfoliation. The result is the shedding of dull and rough skin and the encouragement of the cells’ regeneration. Also, it has been found that the ability to attach to and neutralize the calcium ions between the epidermis cells also enables the neutralization of the free radicals and various polluters— which means these acids have antioxidation and antipollution properties. Moreover, it was found that these acids improve the function of the skin barrier, rehabilitate the skin’s moisture levels, and are even able to penetrate the deeper layer of the skin, into the dermis layer, where they improve the quality of the collagen and elastin fibers and increase their density, encourage the increase of the gene expression of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the dermis, and thicken the skin. These processes lead to a significant improvement in the appearance of the wrinkles, in the skins’ moisture level and the cutaneous characterizations, such as skin elasticity and tone.

Thus, for example, a clinical study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology reported that after four weeks of treatment with lactic acid in a concentration of 12%, a 19% increase in the thickness of the epidermis was found, and in addition, an increase in the production of the collagen in the dermis was detected, as well as an increase in the production of glycosaminoglycans— polysaccharides, whose important property is their ability to bind large amounts of water, thus providing moisture and granting the skin volume.

The two most common alpha hydroxy acids in aesthetic treatments are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Lactic acid is gentler in its influence than glycolic acid and irritates the skin. Furthermore, thanks to the fact that it constitutes one of the components of the NMF—the skin barrier—it increases the skin’s ability to preserve water in the stratum corneum and thus contributes to it moisturizing. Therefore, it is especially suitable for dry and dehydrated skin types, for sensitive skin, and for people who suffer from seborrhea and dermatitis, and it can be found in the active products that offer a solution for these skin problems, as well as in specific moisturizers for skin rehabilitation.

Salicylic Acid (BHA)

Salicylic acid, also called beta hydroxy acid, belongs to the aspirin family, and is found naturally in the bark of the willow tree. It is very similar to alpha-hydroxy acids, but while alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble, salicylic acid is fat-soluble. This structure enables it to penetrate the skin through fat follicles. Thus, other than the exfoliation of the outer skin layer, it can also penetrate the pores and sebaceous glands, exfoliating the skin cells that accumulate within the walls of the pores and normalizing the activity of the glands. Besides, salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties, which operate against bacteria and fungi. Therefore, it is used in products that treat skin inflammations, psoriasis and oily seborrhea (characterized by the secretion of fat), and in antibacterial products (in a concentration of up to 1%), as well as in peeling products for the treatment of oily and acnatic skin (in a concentration of 2%). 

Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA)

This acid has been used in peelings for more than five decades. It is used in treatments to achieve medium to deep exfoliation, to blur wrinkles, refine post-acne scars and lighten age spots and hyper pigmentation.

Relatively high concentrations of the substance—15% – 50%—are used in the professional treatment, which is only performed by dermatologists or plastic surgeons. 

TCA acid penetrates the skin and causes the congelation of the proteins, which causes the appearance of a white residue on the skin surface and the full destruction of the epidermis cells, and leads to a forceful inflammation. As a result, new skin cells are created. The treatment necessitates a healing period at home. It should be noted that it is not suitable for dark-skinned people, since it damages the melanocytes (the cells that produce the pigment melanin), and therefore may cause the appearance of white spots. Furthermore, it is not designated for the areas of the neck and décolleté, due to the risk of scarring.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Ascorbic acid is the most senior acid of all. The beauty industry has been using it for many decades. This fact is unsurprising in light of the central role held by vitamin C in our bodies and skin. First and foremost, vitamin C is not only considered as one of the most potent antioxidants in nature, but also as one found in the largest amounts in our skin, and it influences the skin’s health and appearance, both when swallowed and applied. As such, it protects the skin from free radicals, formed as the result of the skin’s exposure to various harmful environmental factors. Since it is water-soluble, the vitamin operates in the watery areas of the skin cells. It protects it from the oxidization process — a state in which the cells cannot cope with the number of free radicals — by contributing electrons that neutralize these destructive molecules. A very important advantage of vitamin C as an antioxidant is the fact that even its oxidized forms, after finishing its activity against free radicals, are not active, and thus do not damage the skin.

Moreover, vitamin C is essential for the production of collagen and elastin. Clinical studies have shown that its application onto the skin increases their production in older skin as well, and encourages the production of hyaluronic acid and essential enzymes in the skin. Besides, it operates to lighten the skin by blocking the operation of the enzyme tyrosinase, responsible for the production of melanin during the exposure to the sun. Furthermore, it operates as an anti-inflammatory ingredient since it impedes the production of the protein NF Kappa B — a protein that controls the operation of hundreds of genes involved in inflammatory processes, and responsible for the activation of several inflammation-encouraging cytokines, such as TNF alpha. Hence, it can be used as an efficient ingredient for the treatment of skin conditions such as acne vulgaris and rosacea, and also encourages the healing of lesions, and prevents the formation of post-inflammation spots.

The active concentration for cosmetic purposes is 5% and up.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, and thus impedes the production of melanin in the skin. It is also used often with additional skin lighteners to lighten the skin, and thus facilitates the achievement of a quicker result in the melanin suppression and dark spot reduction. Additionally, azelaic acid is used as a therapeutic ingredient in conditions of acne, psoriasis, and oily seborrhea. This is thanks to its ability to reduce the pace of the division of cells in the skin and the cells of the sebaceous glands, which secrete fat (sebum) on the skin surface. By this, it assists in reducing the accelerated division pace of the keratin cells in conditions of psoriasis and in decreasing the excess fat secreted from the sebaceous glands, which leads to the clogging of the hair follicles and the creation of a fertile ground for the P-Acne bacterium. 

The concentrations used in aesthetic treatments vary from 10% to 20%. 

Kojic Acid

This acid is a by-product of the fermentation process of rice, and it is also used in skin-lightening treatments. It is considered to be relatively safe and gentle. Like ascorbic acid, it also operates to inhibit the production of the pigment melanin by reducing the efficiency of the enzyme tyrosinase. It is used in concentrations of 1%-3%, often combined with additional skin-lighteners — a combination that creates synergy between the substances and intensifies their operation. 

Urea 

Urea, also known as carbamide, is a water-soluble substance found in the skin’s stratum corneum, which has an important role in the preservation of the skin’s moisture. It is one of the NMFs—the natural moisturizing factors—which form the skin barrier. As such, it preserves the moisture in the skin cells and protects the skin from the damaging influence of detergents like SLS. Also, urea has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. Healthy skin contains 1% of urea, but in conditions of dryness and skin conditions such as contact dermatitis, the skin suffers from a urea deficiency. 

In the cosmetics industry, urea is used as an important ingredient in many products, including moisturizers, products that protect against skin irritation, and products for the rehabilitation of irritated and injured skin (a concentration of 1% – 3% for moisturizing purposes, and 4% – 5% for the repair of damaged tissue, cracks in injured skin and the healing of inflammatory lesions). Studies have found that the regular use of urea as part of cosmetics products assists to increase the level of moisture in the skin and reduce the water loss from the stratum corneum, reduces the skin’s sensitivity to detergents and accelerates its healing and rehabilitation following such exposure. Besides, urea adds volume to the stratum corneum, and therefore, despite being part of the skin barrier, it increases the skin’s penetrability to additional ingredients in the product.

However, urea also bears a keratolytic effect, and in a concentration of 6% and up, it is used for a powerful exfoliation, renewal of the skin, and even for the removal/dissolution of ingrown nails. In cosmetic products designated for skin regeneration, it is found in these concentrations.