How effective off-the-shelf skin care products really are? 

The British Consumerism Magazine ‘which.co.uk.’ has published a report that claims that there is no difference between expensive and cheap eye creams which are sold in the retail chain stores – for all of them the effectiveness in reducing wrinkles around the eyes is very limited. The report is based on the research initiated by The British Consumerism Magazine, which examined the effectiveness of 12 eye contour creams, all belonging to well known brands, in diminishing wrinkles. The participants were women between the ages of 35-65, and used the products for 6 weeks. At the end of the trial five skin experts analyzed high resolution pictures of the skin around the eyes taken both before and at the end of the trial period in purpose to examine if there has been any visible improvement in the depth or length of the wrinkles. They concluded that none of the products tested was close to eliminating all together or at least reducing the wrinkles’ appearance.

This is not the first research that has found limited effectiveness in off-the-shelf skin care products. A previous research that was done in 2006, tested hundreds of women between the ages of 30-70, that had used cosmetic products purchased in the beauty shops and department stores. The research concluded that the influence of those products is relatively minor. Moreover, the creams considered to be among the excellent ones succeeded to reduce only 10% of the wrinkles.

It is not a coincidence that both researches, which had received a lot of press on the internet and vigorous TV discussions in Britain and in the United States, arrived at the same conclusions. The majority of cosmetic products sold in department stores do not contain high concentrations of active ingredients. Which means that by the nature of their definition, off-the-shelf products can’t bring about a change in the skin‘s appearance; this is just one of the differences between these cosmetic products and the professional cosmetic products sold through licensed beauty therapists.

Here are some of the main reasons why you should purchase professional cosmetic products:

High concentrations – professional products contain higher concentrations of those active ingredients which have been found effective in achieving the purpose of the product’s aim and therefore enable more effective results in less time. An example is HL’s C THE SUCCESS CONCENTRATED VITAMIN C SERUM which contains among the highest concentrations of vitamin C today with over 17% pure vitamin C, was highlighted on the American TV network NBC as well in the international magazines Vogue and Elle, where it was recommended as one of the most effective topical skin care products. Other examples include the ALPHA COMPLEX and ALPHA-BETA WITH RETINOL product lines, both contain active concentrations of natural AHAs as well as BHA. 

Results oriented and purpose focused – in professional cosmetics there is a vast variety of products which are formulated for different skin conditions and skin types. HL has developed many products aimed at particular complexions and with the purpose of treating specific skin conditions such as: seborrhea, couperose, rosacea, acne, post acne, scars and more.

Relating to complexity of factors – with professional products you can customize the skincare regimen and match the treatment plan according to the client’s individual parameters – age, skin condition, lifestyle and skincare goals. 

Synergism – the combination of products enables professionals to carry out more effective and result oriented treatments for various skin conditions. In order to provide long lasting solutions to diverse skin problems HL has developed comprehensive and complete product lines in order to achieve optimal effectiveness.

Marketing through licensed beauty therapists – when choosing off-the-shelf products, a wrong choice can cause skin problems, such as: cosmetic acne, inflammation, swelling and even accelerate skin aging. On the other hand, professional cosmetic products are marketed by certified aestheticians, in order to enable the optimal individualized match to the complexion following a thorough examination of the client’s skin, and with the proper guidance and instructions for the at home skin regimen. Only the certified professional has the knowledge and understanding of the key, active ingredients found in each product, what these components are meant to do, how to combine them for best results and who they are suitable for. A client interested in buying products is not obligated to undergo a treatment series unless they choose to do so, however, in many cases a professional treatment is recommended in order to achieve concrete results.

Particularly effective formulations for aestheticians – professional cosmetics includes a variety of products which are solely for the qualified aestheticians to be used at the clinic, following training in the application of the formulations as well as advanced working techniques. 

The accumulated exposure to the sun’s radiation is the main cause for spots and hyperpigmentation, but how exactly are the spots formed and how are they treated?

The photoaging processes that are caused by the UV rays are known today as the main cause for skin damages. These rays cause long-term damage, which has a crucial role in the aging of the skin, including the appearance of pigmentation and sunspots. Among the general population pigmentation problems are one of the common reasons for seeing dermatologists, and beyond the aesthetic problem, it has also been found to entail negative psychological influences for those who suffer from them.

The instigators of the damage are the free radicals, found in the ultraviolet radiation. These unstable and destructive molecules cause changes and continuous damage to all the layers of the skin, when the first to be damaged are the melanocytes cells of the epidermis. These cells produce melanin – the skin pigment that grants skin its color. Melanin is actually one of the skin protective mechanisms, and its role is to protect the skin from the sun’s radiation and to filter the damaging rays. It absorbs, and later on returns the UV rays that penetrate the skin, and thus prevents them from damaging the cells and the skin tissue. The enzyme responsible for the production of melanin is tyrosinase. It produces melanin from the amino acid tyrosine. When we are exposed to the sun, the tyrosinase accelerates and encourages the production of the melanin and the skin darkens. The problem is that the dispersing of the pigment particles is not always even, and sometimes, color particles accumulate in a certain area, creating a spot, or a hyperpigmentation area.

Hyperpigmentation begins to appear at a very young age, even if it is not visible. Using ultraviolet photographing technique, various studies have revealed that pigmentation spots can already be found at the age of 12 on the skin of children who were exposed to the sun without protection. Nevertheless, the external expression of the damages of the exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet radiation begins to manifest in the skin years after it, and the influence is accumulative. At a certain stage, mostly around the ages of 30–40, these damages become visible in the form of freckles, spots and hyperpigmentation.

Other than the UV rays, additional factors contribute to the formation of spots and hyperpigmentation phenomenon. One of the central ones is taking certain medications, skin inflammations and injuries, hormonal changes that occur for example during pregnancy or due to birth-control pills and stress, all influence the production of melanin.

Like in many fields, the best treatment for pigmentation problems is prevention, and in this case, the most effective prevention is achieved through a consistent and meticulous use of sunscreens. Studies show that a regular use of sunscreens is related to a significant decrease in the appearance of age signs and skin pigmentations. According to internationally recognized guidelines, it is necessary to ensure that the selected product provides protection from both the UVA radiation and the UVB radiation, and that it has a sun protective factor (SPF) of at least 15. For those who belong to the risk groups or in cases when there is a prolonged activity outdoors, the recommendation is a sunscreen with SPF 30 and above.

Skin lightening ingredients

In recent years, many studies have been conducted with the purpose of developing effective and safe cosmetic products for correcting hyperpigmentation spots and overall illuminating the skin tone. One of the main developmental focuses on the tyrosinase enzyme. By impeding the production of tyrosinase in the skin, the production of melanin can be impeded, thus influencing the phenomenon of pigmentation.

DERMALIGHT is a unique and effective treatment line based on classical ingredients known for their lightening properties alongside new generation lightening ingredients, working in synergy to target various hyperpigmentation mechanisms. This multi target approach, that pigmentation occurs at various levels, proposes different modes of interference to be most effective with the help of functional key actives which have been scientifically proven to reduce uneven tone and pigmentation.

Butylresorcinol, a resorcinol derivative that has an inhibitory effect on both tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1, is considered a significant and effective ingredient in innovative hyperpigmentation treatments. Recent researches demonstrated use of Butylresorcinol resulted in significant decrease in melasma pigmentation.

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine works as an α-MSH (Melanin stimulating Hormone or Melanotropin) inhibitor in 3 different mechanisms of melanin production: inhibits tyrosinase enzyme, prevents melanin synthesis and prevents expansion of pigment to the cells.

Arbutin is a plant derivative, produced from bearberry leaves, it acts to efficiently impede the production of melanin by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme and by that prevents the formation of new spots.

Kojic Acid, a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice or the manufacturing process of sake — the Japanese rice wine; it inhibits the production of melanin by reducing the efficiency of the tyrosinase by interrupting the connection with tyrosine thus reducing the production of melanin.

Azelaic Acid, found in wheat, rye, and barley, inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme and therefore reduces melanin production. In addition functions as an anti bacterial ingredient and is suitable for all skin tones. When it is combined with Kojic Acid it assists in achieving a quicker result in the impediment of the melanin and the reduction of the spots.

The Y-Zone area, refers to the lower part of the face including the chin, jaw and neck line, is among first to betray our age.

Even when the facial skin is groomed, the loose and sagging skin in this area contributes to an older appearance and adds on years to our aesthetics because of lack of defined facial contours. In spite of that, many women actually tend to neglect this delicate area in their daily skin care regimen.

What characterizes the Y-zone, why the skin tends to sag and wrinkle prematurely?

The sagginess, lack of firmness, wrinkles and older looking skin in the Y-zone begins in the 40s and early 50s. 
A number of factors are responsible:

•  The decline in the synthesis of collagen and elastin – the gradual decrease in the production of these two essential skin proteins, responsible for its firmness and elasticity, is a direct result of the reduction in the amount of the female hormones which begins at menopause.

•  Reduced amount of submental fat – the skin in the neck area is very similar to the skin around the eyes, more thin and delicate, characterized by less oil glands and a thinner layer of fat; therefore it is prone to showing wrinkles sooner. To this contributes greatly the decrease in dermal fat that occurs with age as a result of hormonal and biochemical changes.

•  A decrease in hyaluronic acid – starting from adolescence, the natural production of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases slowly, as a result, the water retention capacity of the skin and its moisture balance decrease and may lead to an increase in the amount of wrinkles.

•  Gravity– over the years the inevitable pull of gravity contributes to a sagging jawline.

•  Absorption of jawbone – the significant changes in facial bones, especially the jaw bone which defines the lower angle of the face, which occur as people age, contribute to an aging appearance; a decline in the jaw’s volume means there is less support of soft tissue of the lower face and neck contributing to sagging skin and a loss in the jawline definition.

•  Weakening of the platysma muscles – over the years, the platysma muscles, those which keep the deep layers of the neck in place and give structure to the neck, loose elasticity and strength gradually becoming weaker, this leads to sagging skin.

•  Forgetting to apply sunscreen – solar radiation affects the Y-zone as well, and it is not uncommon for people to forget the daily application of a broad SPF cream to this area as well, especially on the neck, leaving it exposed to radiation and the damaging effects of free radicals.

In recent years, the field of plastic surgery developed a series of new procedures and techniques for the rejuvenation of the Y-zone. Alongside the invasive treatments, the aesthetics field has also what to offer regarding innovative treatments, based on effective ingredients which provide solutions to a variety of problems that characterize this area. It should be remembered that the Y-zone needs continuous care and active ingredients that will encourage the synthesis of essential components for a younger looking skin; hence it is important to select functional formulations that provide long lasting, visible results.

3 TIPS FOR PROTECTING THE SKIN DURING SKI HOLIDAYS

When getting ready for the next ski vacation it is important to pack not only the ski equipment and warm clothes but also the skin care products that will help us maintain a healthy and beautiful complexion when on the slopes. The high altitude, low temperature, wind and sun all take a toll on the skin and it is important to keep in mind the 3 things essential for a beautiful complexion.

Broad spectrum sun protection

On the high mountain peaks the effect of UV radiation is more intense. This is due to the fact that at great height, the strength of UVA rays is more acute; even though UVA radiation is present all across the atmosphere, its strength increases as one goes higher in altitude.
UVA rays are the main cause of premature skin aging, because unlike UVB rays, can penetrate deeper into the dermis where they change the expression of certain genes and cause damage to the DNA of skin cells and the creation of pro-inflammatory components leading to the destruction of proteins collagen and elastin and photo-age. In addition, the bright snow reflects UV light and thus increases the intensity of the natural radiation.

Hydrate

It is recommended to choose skin care formulations that contain actives well known for their humectant and moisture preserving capabilities, for example hyaluronic acid; preferably enriched with ceramides and fatty acids to help repair and protect the layer of natural oils present in the hydro-lipid layer of the skin and prevent water loss.

Prevent oxidative damage

To help nourish skin and fight free radicals damage complement the skin care program with potent antioxidant vitamins – such as vitamins A, C and E. The application of topical vitamins will help prevent free radicals damage and also boost skin nourishment.

TIP

It is best to choose an SPF 50+ especially if you have sensitive skin or if you expect a prolonged exposure. Just like during the hot summer days on the beach, it is necessary to reapply throughout the day, at least twice a day and more if spending the entire day on the slopes. Regular use of a lip balm, preferably with SPF as well, will help avoid dry, chapped, blistered lips.

The skin is the largest and heaviest organ in our body, with differing thickness in various areas of the body. It constitutes a buffer between the body’s internal tissues and the external environment, and fulfills several functions, among them preventing the penetration of factors that may harm the body, such as bacteria, viruses and other disease carriers, hazardous substances and more; maintaining and regulating body temperature; preventing dehydration and receiving information from the environment through receptors in the skin.

The skin is made up of two main layers: the epidermis – the external layer of the skin, and the dermis – the inner layer that lies under the epidermis. Below them lies a sub-cutaneous fat layer.

Structure and function of the epidermis

The epidermis layer is the external layer of the skin, which protects the inner tissues from harmful external effects, such as air pollution, smoke, ultraviolet rays and dryness, all which cause an accumulation of free radicals in the body. The epidermis is composed of three main types of cells: keratinocytes, melanocytes, and Langerhans’ cells.

The keratinocyte cells, which constitute the majority of the cells, are arranged in layers. The upper layer is called the corneum layer, the intermediate layer is made up of elongated squamous cells, while the bottom layer is called the basal cell layer. Because the upper layer of the skin is constantly exposed to harmful external effects, the skin has a special mechanism to replace the upper skin cells every 28 days or more. Cells in the basal layer which is at the bottom of the epidermis move upwards. In the process of moving they die and form the corneum layer, which is in effect made up of dead cells that adhere to one another strongly with a type of biological adhesive, serving to prevent the penetration of harmful bodies such as bacteria and viruses.

At the bottom of the epidermis are melanoctye cells. These cells form melanin, a chemical substance that gives the skin its color. The number of melanoctyes is the same among light and dark-skinned people, but in dark skins, the melanin is formed continuously and is spread through all layers of the epidermis, while in light skin, it is formed only after continued exposure to the sun, and then too only in relatively small quantities, and is distributed only in the lower epidermis layers. In addition, the melanin that is formed in dark-skinned people is more effective in blocking the sun’s rays than that formed in light-skinned people.

The Langerhans’ cells are found in the upper epidermis layers and constitute an important part of the protective system of the skin and in fact of the whole body. These cells belong to the body’s immune system, and their role is to identify foreign substances that penetrate the skin, such as bacteria, viruses, or carcinogenic cells. In these cases, the Langerhans’ cells secrete special substances that summon to the “attacked’ region white blood cells – lymphocytes. The lymphocytes, which are the “soldiers” of the immune system, create an inflammatory reaction, which aims to destroy the foreign bodies. 

Structure and function of the dermis

The dermis layer is responsible for the supply of support and food material to the epidermis. This layer is primarily composed of collagen and elastin fibers. With age, these fibers begin to change, and they give the skin an old and wrinkled look. The collagen is a type of protein built as thick and interwoven fibers, facing in different directions. In this way, they keep the skin strong and allow it to be stretched without tearing.

The elastin fibers are what gives the skin its elasticity. These fibers are relatively thin, and they behave like rubber, allowing the skin to return to its original form.

The dermis contains blood vessels that nourish the skin and provide it with food and oxygen. In addition, it contains the sebaceous glands, sweat glands, hair follicles, and sense receptors.

The sebaceous glands secrete an oily substance that coats the skin and keeps it moist. These glands are generally concentrated in the skin of the face, scalp, back, and chest. While present in the body from birth, the glands only become active during puberty. 

The function of the sweat glands is to secrete sweat, in order to regulate the body temperature and cool it. The hair follicles are like small pouches, with a single hair growing in each. The sense receptors are responsible for the various senses of our skin – heat, cold, pain, touch, and pressure and thanks to them the skin is a vital organ in receiving information from the environment.

Sun protection

Recent studies have proven that exposure to the sun’s rays harms the functioning of the Langerhans’ cells found in the epidermis, which are vital for the immune system. This damage constitutes one of the main causes in the development of tumors on the skin related to the sun, among them cancerous tumors. This is the reason that today cosmetic companies are meticulous about including sun filters in their treatment products. HL’s SUNBRELLA and AGE DEFENSE products include sunscreens that provide comprehensive protection against UVA and UVB rays . 

Great Reasons That Will Make You Frequent Your Cosmetologist

1 –      EXFOLIATION 

Routine exfoliation removes dead skin cells, grease and dirt found in our everyday environment and improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

2 –      INCREASED CIRCULATION

Facials boost circulation to the skin layers. The rush of blood grants a healthy glow and plumps skin cells with vital nutrients and water.

3 –      EXTRACTIONS

Estheticians use special methods and tools that prevent redness and perform thorough deep cleanse, the most effective way to get rid of blackheads.

4 –      LONG TERM BENEFITS

Regular facials along with routine maintenance will keep the skin smoother, softer and will reduce breakouts.

5 –      STRESS RELIEF

The power of touch combined with proper massage techniques has a soothing and relaxing effect.

6 –      PROFESSIONAL TOOLS, PROFESSIONAL RESULTS

Spa equipment and skin care products for professionals are more effective with higher concentrations of active ingredients that penetrate deeper into the skin.

7 –      CUSTOMIZED TREATMENT

Estheticians diagnose the root causes of skin problems, address specific skin care concerns and recommend the most suitable products and treatments. 

The skin care routine that precedes the night’s sleep has immense significance in maintaining the healthy, beautiful appearance of the skin.

During the night, our skin works hard to repair the damages caused by free radicals and sleep enables it to do so through cell renewal. During deep sleep, the skin restores its ability to fight off environmental and natural damages, a regeneration which translates into a brighter, healthier skin appearance. Sleep reduces the levels of cortisol, the stress hormone, which causes the skin to become thinner and increases the tendency for a lack of uniformity in the skin tone. At the same time, the secretion of the hormone melatonin is increased – the sleep hormone which acts as an antioxidant that fights free radicals – as well as growth hormones that repair and restore the cells that produce collagen and elastin, which are responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. Furthermore, during the night sleep, the facial muscles are in a state of complete rest, a process which assists in relaxing the skin and enables a better penetration of the active ingredients in the skin care products.

How can the process of the rejuvenation and rehabilitation of the skin during the night be assisted?

 * Make sure to thoroughly cleanse the skin before going to sleep – cleansing the face before bedtime is extremely important for the removal of debris which has accumulated on the skin during the day and for cleansing congested pores.

 * Use a cream which is dedicated for the night – night creams have a richer texture than day creams.

* Take advantage of the night hours in order to use products which contain active ingredients that are not recommended during the day because of exposure to the sun – an important advantage of the night cream is that active ingredients which are not recommended for use with the exposure to the sun, like Retinol and  acids, can be included in it. These ingredients have been proven as especially effective in their ability to rejuvenate and rehabilitate the skin.

* Before the night cream, it is advisable to use a serum that contains a concentration of active ingredients like Vitamin C – in a resting state, the skin absorbs the active ingredients of the serum better. In addition, during the hours of the night the serum does not need to compete with the rest of the products we apply onto the skin during the day, like makeup and sun block, with air pollution and other environmental factors which surround us.

* If your skin is sensitive, select a night cream which contains  soothing,  anti-inflammatory  actives – it is  advisable to take advantage of the  hours during which the skin is in a state of rest in order to lessen inflammatory processes and to soothe the skin. Ingredients like Azulene, Cornflower, Echinacea, Calendula, Chamomile and Jojoba, act as anti-inflammatory factors helping soothe sensitive skin, and strengthen the natural immune mechanisms.

The terms “free radicals” and “antioxidants” have become very common and part of our daily routine for professionals in the professional aesthetics field.
What exactly do these terms mean? Why are oxidation and free radicals harmful to our skin and how can using advanced cosmetic products containing antioxidants neutralize this damage and protect the skin against accelerated aging?

Oxidation is a natural process, which takes place all the time in nature. On the one hand, without oxygen life would not be possible, and every living cell needs oxygen in order to produce energy and build proteins. On the other hand, the very same oxygen causes wear and tear, destruction and disintegration, and as a result, the aging and death of the cells.

What exactly is the oxidation process and why does it harm our bodies and skin?

The oxidation process is in effect the process of oxygen combustion, which takes place in each cell of our body and serves to produce energy and build proteins. Like in any factory, in the process of production and extraction there are byproducts, mainly free radicals. The free radicals are molecules which play important roles in our bodies and skin, such as killing bacteria and forming connections between collagen fibers in the skin. On the other hand, these molecules have a significant disadvantage – they are unstable and over active. These molecules have a surplus electron (free), which they try tirelessly to get rid of, and this by seeking the closest molecule to which to attach. The problem is that they are likely to connect also to vital and sensitive molecules such as proteins, fats and other tissues, and even to our genetic material – the DNA. As soon as they connect to another molecule, the free radicals attack and harm it. In addition, they turn this molecule into a free radical, which in turn harms other molecules. This creates an infinite chain reaction, which if not stopped right at the beginning, can cause cumulative and significant damage, including the development of carcinogenic processes, chronic diseases and premature aging, including accelerated aging of the skin.

Nature has made sure that every cell contains neutralizing agents – antioxidants. These agents bind the free radicals and in so doing balance their concentration and prevent them from harming the tissues and cells. Normally, in our bodies there is a balance between the accumulation of free radicals and their destruction; however external agents such as air pollution, sun’s harmful radiation, smoking, detergents and fertilizers, processed foods, fat-rich foods etc. accelerate the formation of free radicals and cause their accumulation.

In recent years numerous medical and anti-aging researchers have focused on oxidation and free radicals, in an attempt to slow down these processes. One of the solutions under investigation which has already been proven in countless studies, is the use of antioxidants which neutralize free radicals, such as Vitamins A, C and E, found in plants, vegetables and fruit, the minerals selenium and zinc, and other substances such as Coenzyme Q10 and Alpha Lipoic Acid. The intake of food and food supplements rich in antioxidants today constitutes an inseparable part of anti-aging medicine. In parallel it has been found that topically applied skincare products containing active concentrations of vitamins slow down the aging process of the skin. Another finding is that the topical application of vitamins is several times more efficient than consuming them in food or food additives.

For many years, researchers at HL have been studying the optimal effects of antioxidants from natural sources on the skin. Many of the HL professional skincare products combine the most important antioxidants, such as:
Alpha Lipoic Acid a potent antioxidant, fights inflammation, helps prevent oxidative damage to cells.

Coenzyme Q10, naturally produced by the body however its production declines with age, plays a key role in the protection of cells from oxidants and helps manage energy production in cells.

Vitamins A, C, E, each works to protect cells from damage from oxidants, help improves cell turnover, support collagen synthesis, preserve skin moisture retention.

Acai, Grapes, Green Tea, Pomegranate extracts are powerful herbal antioxidants, improve elasticity, protect from sun damage, anti-inflammatory, strengthen cell membranes, reduce fine lines.

1.  

The core blends of HL PROFESSIONAL PEELS, the comprehensive range of cosmetic grade exfoliators, are based on proprietary blends of natural Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) further enhanced with key actives such as BHA, Retinol and extracts to reach the optimal synergy point.

.2.

The HL proprietary blends of Alpha Hydroxy Acids comprise 5 AHAs: glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid, in different concentrations and ratios. These acids are sourced from milk as well as fruits such as oranges, lemons, sugar cane, sugar maple and bilberry.

.3. 

AHAs have been defined as one of the most effective cosmetic ingredients in topical treatments. On the epidermis AHAs work by shedding the top layer of dead skin cells to reveal a newer, smoother skin. The extent of the exfoliation of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum depends on the type and concentration of AHAs, complementary ingredients in the product as well as the treatment technique.

.4. 

The HL proprietary blends of Alpha Hydroxy Acids are further intensified with BHA, Retinol and potent key actives such as vitamins A and C, Grape Seed, Pomegranate and Acai complete and intensify the benefits. Each ingredient plays an important role in the formulation, offering a treatment solution via strength and suitability based on the needs of different skin conditions and aesthetic treatments.

.5.

The HL PROFESSIONAL PEELS will assist by improving skin’s barrier function, stimulating cellular renewal, boost collagen synthesis and increase hyaluronic acid levels for improved elasticity and skin hydration. They help rejuvenate balance and beautify the complexion.