There is a saying according to which our wrinkles reflect our life story. The problem is that in many cases, this story is inaccurate. Why do some people get wrinkles at a young age, whereas the skin of others looks smooth and younger than their age? What are the mechanisms involved in the appearance of wrinkles? These questions have kept scientists in the field of anti-aging occupied for many years. Studies point to a variety of mechanisms; some are related to the skin’s natural aging and at the same time, there are also various environmental damages that are related to air pollution, smoking, nutrition and predominantly to the exposure to the rays of the sun. These mechanisms lead to the appearance of wrinkles by influencing all of the  skin  structures — starting with the facial bones, through the muscles that support the skin and ending with the skin itself and all of its layers.

THE CAUSES HORMONAL PROCESSES

The appearance of wrinkles on the skin is to some extent the result of hormonal and biochemical processes related to the age. For women, these processes become especially significant during menopause, when the ovaries gradually stop to produce the female sex hormones— estrogen and progesterone. A rapid decline in the levels of these hormones leads to a decrease in the secretion of the sebum and the amounts of the subdermal  fat,  to  a  reduction  of  the  water-preservation ability of the skin, and to a decline in the rate of the production and changeover of the skin cells, including, among  others,  the  fibroblastic  cells  in  the  dermis.  As a result, the production of the collagen and the elastin also decreases, and simultaneously, the collagen fibers become denser, most probably due to the diminishing amount of the intercellular material that protects them. Moreover, with the aging process, the fibroblastic cells produce an increased amount of enzymes, which damage the collagen and the elastin. In a young and healthy skin, these enzymes are supervised by the skin’s control mechanisms, but as the years pass, the effectiveness of these mechanisms declines, which causes an increased activity of destruction.

THE DISINTEGRATION OF THE DERMAL-EPIDERMAL JUNCTION

Another mechanism that is responsible for the appearance of wrinkles is related to the disintegration of the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). This layer, which connects the dermis and the epidermis, creates a sort of net that traps collagen fibers from the upper part of the dermis within it, and on the epidermis side, affixes the keratinocytes (the dominant cells of this layer).  In this manner, it ensures the adherence and cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis, and provides a mechanic support for the epidermis. The wavy shape of DEJ guarantees an enlarged surface for the metabolism between the layers and the strengthening of their cohesion, but with time, is becomes flatter, and as a result, the epidermis loses the support and becomes more flaccid. The connection between the dermis and the epidermis also loosens, and thus the epidermis receives less nutrition and oxygen, becomes thinner, and its regeneration significantly decreases.

A DECREASE IN THE AMOUNTS OF HYALURONIC ACID

Hyaluronic  acid  fulfills  a  central  role  in  the  prevention of wrinkles and the normal function of the skin. Its molecules, which are found on the surface of the skin cells, bind with water, and in this manner provide the skin with moisture and grant features of volume, softness, and elasticity that are important for the prevention of wrinkles. In addition, it has been found that the hyaluronic acid fulfills a key role in the communication between the cells, as it acts as a mediator that transfers to the cells the message to produce collagen and other components important for the skin. But with time, the production of the hyaluronic acid in the skin declines and its function is disrupted. As a result, the skin’s ability to preserve moisture decreases and the elasticity of the skin is impaired.  At the same time, the transmission of communication between the skin cells is damaged. This damage leads to an additional decrease in the production of collagen, accelerates the skins aging and sagging process, as well as the appearance of wrinkles.

LOSS OF FACIAL BONE MASS

The hormonal and biochemical processes that take place with the age do not just have a direct influence on the appearance of wrinkles, but also impact it indirectly, through the effect they have on the facial bones. Whereas in the past it was customary to think that gravity is one of the central causes that contribute to the appearance of wrinkles typical for aging, studies from recent years show that a much more significant cause is the loss of facial bone mass, when with aging, these bones lose volume and retreat. The decline of the bones mainly occurs in the center of the face, in the bones under the eyes and around the nose, and it is more common in women than in men.

UV RADIATION DAMAGE

Beyond the natural processes that take place with the age, the most significant cause for the appearance of wrinkles is the exposure to the radiation of the sun throughout life. The free radicals are responsible for the damages caused to the skin cells. These unstable and destructive molecules are naturally produced in our bodies all the time, however, various factors such as stress, air pollution, smoking and radiation (including the sun’s ultra-violet radiation)  increase their production. When the free radicals multiply, they become destructive, as their oxidation reaction causes changes and a prolonged damage to all the layers of the skin, starting with the epidermis and ending with the dermis. One of the explicit expressions of this damage is the early appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

FACIAL EXPRESSION 

The repeated contractions of the skin as a result of the movement of the facial expressions we make are added to these internal and external processes. With time, these cumulative contractions, which cause the repetitive operation of the sub-dermal muscles, cause the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines that are called expression lines. The typical places for the appearance of these wrinkles are between the eyebrows, the forehead, the sides of the eyes and the sides of the mouth.

The beauty industry has been using vitamin C for skin care for many years. This is not surprising, given the vitamin’s key roles in the skin. Over the last decades, vast information has been gathered about the roles it plays in preventing and delaying skin aging and restoring it, within two key mechanisms: aging – the natural aging process of skin; and photoaging – damages resulting from sun exposure. These same roles make Vitamin C a key ingredient for skin care.

Aging
Skin aging is closely related to age-dependent hormonal and biochemical processes that occur in our bodies. A major one is a gradual decline in the production and secretion of estrogen and progesterone – the female sex hormones – leading to a reduction in the amount of subcutaneous fat and water retention capacity, and a decrease in the rate and production of skin cells. Among other things, there is a decrease in the number of fibroblast cells (which produce collagen and elastin) in the dermis. As a result, the production of the two important skin proteins – collagen and elastin – decreases, and at the same time, there is an overdensity of collagen fibers, causing them to lose their shape. In addition, with aging, fibroblast cells produce enzymes that work against the collagen and elastin fibers and damage them.
Vitamin C acts as an effective anti-aging agent both through its functions in collagen synthesis and as a potent anti-inflammatory agent.

Vitamin C and collagen synthesis
Vitamin C is essential for collagen synthesis, and clinical studies have shown that a skin application of vitamin C increases skin collagen production. This is true for both older and younger skin.  Furthermore, it turns out that the vitamin affects not only the amount of collagen produced, but also the quality of the collagen molecule. This is because Vitamin C acts as a co-factor for pyrrolysine and lysyl hydroxylase – the enzymes responsible for the stability and cross-linking of collagen molecules. Clinical studies have shown that by applying it on the skin, collagen fibers can be “re-entangled” into older skin. Other studies indicated that the vitamin stimulates fibroblast cell division and boosts migration of those cells into damaged areas that need rehabilitation. In addition, scientists have found that the vitamin can protect the skin by increasing the ability of fibroblasts to repair DNA damage, as well as tumors with mutational potential .

Vitamin C as an anti-inflammatory agent
Many studies have indicated that vitamin C inhibits the formation of the NF Kappa B protein, which is considered to be a major factor in generating inflammatory processes.  This protein controls the activity of hundreds of genes involved in inflammatory processes, and is responsible for the activation of several inflammatory cytokines, such as TNF alpha. Therefore, Vitamins C is potentially an anti-inflammatory substance. This is of particular importance since it is now well known that inflammatory processes play a major role in aging, and that many problems that are part of aging are actually caused by them.

Photoaging damages
Exposure to UV radiation is the main cause of increased production of free radicals in the skin. Molecules such as superoxide ion and peroxide can potentially ignite a chain of cascade reactions that damage the skin cells. Their damaging effects occur as a direct result of the chemical changes in the cells’ DNA, cell membranes, and cellular proteins, including collagen.
In addition to the damage caused by the oxidative stress itself to the skin cells, it also appears to indirectly boosts the production of metalloproteinase (MMPs) enzymes in the skin matrix – the intercellular texture. Overproduction of this group of enzymes, whose role in matrix biology has been extensively researched in recent years, leads to the breakdown of collagen. In addition, the oxidative stress also accelerates the production of NF Kappa B – the inflammatory protein. Moreover, the free radicals damage the elastin fibers formed in the skin fibroblasts, and current research has shown that this damage may explain the changes in skin elasticity due to photoaging.
Vitamin C is one of the major substances that counteract photoaging damages, and it has various mechanisms to achieve this. The two most prominent mechanisms are its functions as an antioxidant and as a potent anti-inflammatory agent.

Vitamin C as an antioxidant
Clinical studies examining the effectiveness of Vitamin C against sunlight have shown that this antioxidant is equally effective against UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm). It protects from UV radiation by neutralizing the free radicals. Vitamin C application at a 10% concentration has been shown to significantly reduce skin redness as a result of UVB radiation, as well as reducing cellular burns by 40%-60%.
Vitamin C is considered not only one of the most potent natural antioxidants, but also the most abundant one in our skin. It is part of a group of enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants that work together to protect the skin from free radicals, which result from the exposure of the skin to a variety of harmful environmental factors.
Being water soluble, vitamin C works in the aqueous areas of the skin cells. It protects it from oxidative stress – a condition whereby cells cannot handle the amount of free radicals – by providing electrons to neutralize these destructive molecules. The vitamin’s very important advantage as an antioxidant is that even its oxidized forms – when their activity has ended against free radicals – are not reactive, so they are not harmful to the skin. In addition, it turns out that sun exposure reduces the amounts of vitamin C in the skin, so it is essential to apply it in order to counteract the free radicals.

Vitamin C and skin whitening
Another major role played by vitamin C in the fight against sun damage is in its whiting of the skin. This function results from its great effectivity as a powerful antioxidant. Studies have shown that it inhibits the oxidation phase in melanin formation. In addition, vitamin C was found to interact with copper ions and active tyrosinase sites, blocking the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme. Tyrosinase is responsible for the first stages in producing the dark melanin pigment, which determines the color of the skin, hair and retina, and protects us from the sun’s ultraviolet radiation. When exposed to the sun, tyrosinase accelerates melanin production in melanocyte cells to protect the skin, resulting in darker skin. The problem is that the pigment particles are not uniformly dispersed, and they sometimes accumulate in a certain area, creating skin spots or hyperpigmentation areas. As the exposure to the sun is more prolonged and accumulative, the spots and hyperpigmentation areas increase and become more severe, prominent and permanent. Interestingly, the vitamin’s most powerful effect is reached through  applying it to the skin. In an article published in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, researchers summed up its effectiveness in the skin, explaining that: “applying the vitamin to the skin “augments the skin’s ability to neutralize reactive oxygen singles (free-radical damage) that are created by the ultraviolet radiation, thereby preventing photodamage to the skin.”

“C The Success” series  
This unique HL Lab series is designed to slow down the aging process, and to repair and restore skin damage and early aging signs resulting from processes connected to aging and to accumulative sun exposure. The products in this series contain an active combination of Vitamin C, tangerine oil and hamamelis. They act to inhibit skin aging processes, reduce depth of wrinkles and fine lines and achieve smoother, suppler, and lighter, even-toned skin. This combination of components reduces skin damage caused by the free radicals found in UV radiation and other environmentally damaging agents, while at the same time accelerating the production and proper reorganization of collagen and elastin, and restoring other natural mechanisms responsible for the repair and healing of the skin. Thus, they help reducing the depth of wrinkles and fine lines, soothing the skin, whitening and improving skin tone, texture and appearance. The result: reduced depth of wrinkles and fine lines and continuous improvement in their appearance; improved skin elasticity and softness; lighter and more even skin tone; whitened sunspots and age spots.

Vitamin C derivatives

Vitamin C has several derivatives, some of which are used in the cosmetics industry:

Ascorbic acid – the natural vitamin C derivative found in fruits and vegetables. The source for its name is the substance discovered by Hungarian biochemist Szent-Györgyi in paprika peppers. Györgyi and the British chemist Hawoth, who first identified and synthesized it in 1933, proposed the name a-scorbic acid – that is, scurvy (tetanus) antacid. Ascorbic acid is also the derivative with the most effective skin absorption. In fact, it is found to be absorbed in the deeper skin layer about 20-40 times more than when it is ingested. However, the disadvantage of ascorbic acid is that its molecule is unstable and easily oxidizes in the presence of air, light or heat. Moreover, when oxidized, ascorbic acid is not only ineffective against free radicals, but, in fact, boosts their production, thus leading to damage to essential molecules in the skin. Also, at least a 10% concentration of ascorbic acid in the preparation is required in order to deliver a sufficient amount of vitamin C to the cells.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate – this derivative is more stable than ascorbic acid and is also efficient in boosting collagen production. It can also be used on sensitive skin as it does not irritate it. Its common concentration in cosmetic preparations is 3%-5%.

Ascorbyl Palmitate – this is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C, so it helps protect the skin from lipid oxidation as well. Ascorbyl palmitate is an alternative to ascorbic acid for people with sensitive skin as the substance does not irritate it. It is also more stable than ascorbic acid but less effective than the other derivatives. The optimal concentration of the substance has not been defined yet.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate – another vitamin C derivative that is likely a fat-soluble antioxidant, and is considered to have a better effect than ascorbyl palmitate in stimulating collagen production. It was also found to whiten the skin by suppressing melanin production. The common concentration in preparations is 1% -2%.

One of the important ingredients of current anti-aging products is peptides. These tiny molecules, which are an important component of all the cells in our bodies, have been at the center of recent clinical research in both medicine and aesthetics. Data accumulated from these studies indicate their ability to accelerate collagen production in the skin cells, reduce wrinkles and give the skin a younger look and texture.

What are peptides?
Peptides are short chains of interconnected amino acids (the building blocks of the proteins in our bodies) containing 3-50 amino acids in each chain. Peptides are classified into groups that include dozens of types, and they operate in a variety of mechanisms and locations in the body. Among other things, peptides act as mediators between the cells and the different skin layers, and transmit signals to the dermis tissue cells (including fibroblast cells, which are responsible for collagen and elastin production) – boosting their activity to a level similar to that of a younger skin. At the same time, peptides help the skin to create new small blood vessels, act as antioxidants on the skin surface, help regulate melanin production and inhibit inflammatory processes, while boosting the production of other important skin components.

Lipopeptides
At the heart of the research on the peptides are the lipopeptides – peptides to which a fatty lipid tail is connected. This binding between the fatty lipid tail and the peptides enables them to operate in unique and very efficient mechanisms. For example, it activates cellular immune responses as soon as the peptides penetrates the skin. Some lipopeptides, such as daptomycin, are used as powerful antibacterials and antifungals, and have been shown to cause them mechanical damage. Regarding skin effects, studies indicate that lipopeptides play a variety of essential roles and can be highly effective anti-aging components. Specifically, studies indicate that lipopeptides in cosmetic preparations are able to penetrate the cell membranes and signal skin cells to accelerate the natural production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Thus, they actually act as firming agents – as they boost the skin to produce components which are naturally produced at a younger age, and whose production has almost completely ceased at an older age. As a result, they inhibit wrinkle formation, improve the appearance of existing wrinkles and fine lines, give the skin a younger look and texture, and help improve the skin’s structure and function.

Signal peptides
These peptides are mainly used as signaling molecules that mediate between the cells and the various skin layers. They signal the skin cells to start various healing processes. For example, following skin damage due to injury of inflammation – the peptides signal the skin cells to send immune cells to the damaged site in order to accelerate recovery and delay the inflammation process. They also signal the fibroblast cells – the connective tissue cells responsible for collagen production – to increase its production, and to mobilize the newly produced collagen to the damaged area.

• Hexapeptide 10 – helps to firm the skin and accelerate the production of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells, to rebuild the connection between dermis and epidermis, and to produce additional essential structures in the skin, such as laminin – molecules that are essential for the skin’s structure and attachment. The result: the skin looks supple, firmer and younger. In clinical studies, there was a significant improvement in the condition of wrinkles and fine lines 30 days after using the product(?), and a significant increase in skin elasticity, density and tension 60 days later.
• Serilesine – works in both fibroblasts and keratinocyte cells. It increases the production of important components in the connective area found in the dermoepidermal junction layer, which supports the epidermis and links it to the dermis. Those important components are collagen and elastin, laminin, fibronectin, epiligrin and proteoglycans.
• Acetyl Tetrapeptide 5 – this peptide is unique in that it has a particularly small molecular structure. As a result, it is especially suitable for use in the eye-contour area, and has been clinically proven to reduce wrinkle depth around the eyes, improve skin elasticity and moisturize. In addition, acetyl tetrapeptide 5 was found to protect collagen from glycolization. In this process of glycolization, a reaction is created between cellular glucose and collagen, resulting in collagen damage and leading to wrinkles and skin sagging. Clinical studies found visible improvement in 70% of subjects within 15 days, and in 95% of subjects after 45 days. The use of a preparation based on this peptide improves skin elasticity by 35% within 60 days, resulting in a marked improvement in appearance, elasticity and skin tone.
• Copper peptide – boosts collagen production in fibroblasts, and is therefore very effective in healing the skin and regenerating tissues.
• Palmitoyl pentapeptide – accelerates collagen production in fibroblast cells, thus reducing existing wrinkles and fine lines, and inhibiting the formation of new wrinkles.
• Matrixyl – stimulates both collagen and elastin synthesis in the dermis layer, thus helping to prevent wrinkle formation and helping to fill out existing ones. In a 2016 article published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, the researchers reviewed past studies that examined the effectiveness of matrixyl in cosmetic products, and concluded that it was effective in stimulating skin regeneration through its ability to promote collagen synthesis.

Neurotransmitter Inhibiting Peptides
These peptides are used in innovative cosmetic products to reduce wrinkle depth. They work by inhibiting the release of the acetyl-choline neurotransmitter, which transmits electrical signals from the brain to the facial muscles. Over the years, the repeated contractions of the facial muscles and the constant pressure that causes the muscles to contract, induce cracking in the fibers and the structure of the skin.

• Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide 8) – inhibits the transmission of signals and relaxes the expression muscles, resulting in a marked improvement in the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. For example, lab studies revealed that these neurotransmitter inhibiting peptides reduce expression lines by about 30%.

Carrier peptides
These peptides indeed serve as carriers, and are able to insert a variety of important cosmetic components into the skin cells, such as copper and magnesium that aid enzymatic processes and have been shown to improve pro-collagen production, skin elasticity and overall appearance. 

Perfect Time

HL Lab Perfect Time series, designed for wrinkled adolescent skin, contains a combination of amino acids, lipopeptides and peptides produced by novel technologies, including Matrixyl, Serilesine, as well as the Lipormoist 2036 peptide and polysaccharide compound, which is produced by means of unique technologies.

Empirical studies indicate that this compound raises the level of type IV collagen – the major structural protein in the intercellular matrix – and increases the production of proteins in the epidermal cells (keratinocytes). For example, in a study on women between the ages 35-55 who used a preparation containing Lipormoist 2036 at a concentration of 5% for 28 days, the skin became supple, softer and firmer.

This unique combination improves skin structure, firmness and elasticity, increases the volume of subcutaneous fat, reduces wrinkles and increases the amounts of moisture in the skin. The results are noticeable in both the short and long term: along with an immediate stretching effect and smoothing, the skin becomes moist, firmer and supple.

One of the most important functions of the skin is acting as a powerful barrier which protects the skin from harmful external factors while retaining skin moisture. Disruption of the skin’s function as a barrier allows the penetration of allergens, micro-organisms, air pollutants and other harmful substances, and is one of the main causes of skin diseases. In addition, this disruption impairs the skin’s ability to retain moisture and prevent water evaporation from the skin, thereby accelerating skin aging.

The barrier function of the skin is generated by the hydro-lipid system. This system consists of essential elements produced in the skin, including ceramides, amino acids, fatty acids, cholesterol and triglycerides, linoleic acid, and other hygroscopic substancesthat facilitate water absorption and retention. These substances, known as Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), include sugar molecules such as hyaluronic acid and glucosaminoglucans, whose important property is their ability to bind large amounts of water, as well as lactic acid, amino acids, urea, sodium PCA, and minerals such as sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium.

This hydro-lipid complex acts as an intercellular material, tightly binding the dead cells in the stratum corneum in a special process designed to maintain the skin barrier. Cells from the basal layer at the bottom of the epidermis move upwards, dying and forming the stratum corneum. During their upward movement they also secrete proteins and fats that build up the epidermal barrier. This process results in a turnover of the skin cells in the upper layer every 28 days or so. At the same time, water moves from the dermis (the source of water in the skin) upwards, to the epidermal layers.

With years and aging, the amount of substances that make up the hydro-lipid barrier in the epidermis decreases due to changes related to age and hormones. This process is accelerated by various environmental factors, including low air humidity, exposure to the sun, cold and winds, air pollution, cigarettes etc., which damage the corneal layer and natural skin moisturers, leading to water loss that can cause irreversible damage and accelerate skin aging.

How can the skin barrier be restored?
Cosmetic treatments and preparations that help restore the skin barrier contain the lost components – these are essential to water absorption on the one hand, and others which prevent evaporation on the other hand.

• Water-absorbing ingredients – these ingredients include amino acids, alpha hydroxy acids, urea and glycerin which are the natural NMFs in the skin.
• Hyaluronic acid – based on sugar proteins, whose important property is their ability to bind large amounts of water. Thus, the acid provides the skin with moisture and gives it volume, softness and elasticity, making it look smooth, taut and young.
• Sealing ingredients – these substances include ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol produced naturally in the skin, and help repair the natural fat layers in the hydro-lipid barrier when damaged, as well as hydrophobic substances, which help seal the skin and prevent water evaporation.
• Vitamins and antioxidants, especially Vitamins A, C and E – these vitamins help prevent the oxidative damage caused by free radicals and which impair, among other things, the skin’s ability to retain moisture.
  
  

HL Laboratories: Innovative and sophisticated moisturizers

HL Laboratories has developed a number of innovative and sophisticated preparations that help saturate the skin and preserve water.

Vitalise series – this effective series boosts the production of the hyaluronic acid, effectively increasing the moisture level in the skin and preventing natural moisture evaporation. It also improves firmness of the skin and reduces the appearance of wrinkles, while increasing skin softness and elasticity.
The products in the series are intended for skin characterized by dryness and a lack of moisture, including oily non-moisturized skin. The preparations combine hyaluronic acid with other active ingredients, which help to increase the skin’s moisture and improve its firmness, including lactic acid, which has proven effective in accelerating the production of hyaluronic acid; vitamins A, C and E, which help prevent the damage of free radicals that impair the skin’s ability to retain moisture, while working to restore moisture retention mechanisms; peptides, which help to rejuvenate the skin and encourage collagen production; a variety of oils, including borage oil, kukui, macadamia and Brazil nuts, all helping to moisturize the skin; green tea, which also acts as an antioxidant.

Bio-Repair Series – works to restore skin that was damaged by environmental factors. The series is based on a unique complex of collagen and elastin which prevents and repairs the damage caused to skin cells and stimulates the internal repair and improvement mechanisms of skin cells. The series is designed for rehabilitating damaged, fatigued and lifeless skin.

The incorrect choice of cosmetic products may cause various problems in the skin, such as cosmetic acne, inflammation and accelerated skin aging. The changes that take place in the skin over time make both women as well as men more aware of the visible signs of aging, encouraging them to try to restore a youthful glow at any cost. This urge intensifies with the temptations presented in cosmetic ads causing many customers, particularly women, to try any new product, serums, masks or creams that appear on the shelves in drugstores and department stores, that  promise restored youth and smooth, firm and radiant complexion. Every time, there is the renewed expectation that the very next cosmetic product is what will make the change, the revolution. In truth, very often, the incorrect choice of cosmetic products straight off the shelf as well as the incorrect application may do more harm than good.

What aesthetic problems can be caused as a result of the incorrect choice and of cosmetic products?

Many times customers are not aware that the products purchased off-the-shelf are not suitable for their skin type, condition and in respect to their lifestyle. Moreover, they may not be aware if the formulation is too active for their complexion or if it contains ingredients that can act as irritants and may cause inflammation of the skin, accelerate the skin’s aging, disrupt the natural renewal of the skin as well as biological processes such as sebum secretion.

Drugstore versus professional cosmetic products

Customized skin care regimens based on the right cosmetic products that are recommended according to the skin type, condition and lifestyle, along with accurate training on the proper use of the products, are the field of expertise of licensed aestheticians. This is one of the most important differences between the purchase of cosmetic products off-the-shelf in a drugstore and purchasing from a professional beauty therapist following a skin consultation that will target the skin’s specific needs and determine the desired skincare goals. The aesthetician has the knowledge, training and understanding of the active ingredients and how they complement each other, how to combine products correctly and for whom they are best suited.

Customizing a unique skincare regimen for each individual will help ensure that it is safe and will deliver optimal results. 

Sunlight plays a critical role in our health, including in synchronizing our biological clock and in the skin’s ability to produce vitamin D. However, prolonged and cumulative exposure to sunlight UV radiation leads to long-term damage that plays a pivotal role in skin aging, including sunspots and pigmentation, wrinkles and laugh lines. After increased exposure to the sun, the fall months are ideal to care for the skin, rejuvenate and restore, and treat these effects through active ingredients that contribute to skin renewal and restoration. Thanks to growing research, recent effective treatments for the renewal and restoration of the facial skin have been developed.

The damage of UV rays to the skin occurs at the skin cells’ DNA. The cumulative damage affects all skin layers, from the outer layer – the epidermis – to the deeper skin sections.  Aside from pigmentation spots and visible freckels on the epidermis, the cumulative exposure damages the collagen and elastin fibers. Equally serious is the damage to essential components that allow the skin to retain moisture, by absorbing water from the external environment and preventing the evaporation of natural skin moisture. This damage causes the loosening of the tissue structure and loss of its organized structure, as well as skin dryness, reduction of elasticity and vitality, and the premature appearance of wrinkles.

1. Peel off the summer damages

Autumn is the ideal time for professional peeling by a cosmetician. Alpha and beta hydroxy acid-based peeling treatments performed by a professional cosmetician are one of the most effective methods known today for improving and repairing skin texture. They can repair photoaging damage, reduce wrinkles and fine lines, blur scars, lighten skin blemishes, and balance and treat oily skin. After the process of peeling, the skin looks healthier, smoother and firmer. These treatments at a cosmetics salon are defined as medium to superficial, and are performed as a series of consecutive treatments.
2. Use a preparation containing retinol to restore summer-damaged collagen production

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative. In recent years, this substance has been considered one of the most effective cosmetic ingredients, along with alpha and beta hydroxy acids, all able to repair skin damage resulting from sun exposure, and to lighten sun spots. Retinol breaks down its chemical structure in the skin, becomes a retinoic acid and works on the skin cells. Studies show that external application of vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, significantly accelerates the production of collagen and pro-collagen (the substance from which collagen is formed in the skin), thus helping to maintain skin structure and strength, rejuvenate the skin, smooth its texture and blur wrinkles. Retinol also helps regulate the production of the melanin pigment, and has been proven to help repair accumulated skin damages that appear after sun exposure, and even to lighten pigmentation spots. It was found that even after a month of applying a preparation containing a concentration of 0.1% retinoic acid, there is a dramatic reduction of more than 80 percent of skin spots, and it lightens the skins as well.

3. Time for skin lightening

A number of substances have recently been proven as particularly effective in skin whitening – kojic acid, azelaic acid, arbutin, Vitamin C and vitamin B3. Treatments that combine these components and alpha and hydroxy acids are particularly effective in skin lightening and repairing of sun damages.

• Kojic acid
  This acid is produced by mold fungi, such as penicillium or aspergillus, and is a by-product of rice malt fermentation or of producing Sake – the Japanese rice wine. Kojic acid inhibits melanin production by reducing the effectiveness of the tyrosinase enzym, which accelerates and encourages melanin production during sun exposure.
• Azelaic acid
  Azelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase as well, and when combined with kojic acid it helps to achieve faster results in suppressing melanin and reducing blemishes.
• Arbutin
  Arbutin is a plant derivative of hydroquinone, extracted from strawberry leaves, cranberries, blueberries and similar plants. Similar to the other substances mentioned here, it effectively suppresses melanin production by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase.
• Vitamin C
  This water-soluble antioxidant, also called ascorbic acid, is one of the major antioxidants in nature, and plays a vital role in neutralizing damages of free radicals to the skin. In addition, vitamin C is vital to the production of collagen and elastin, and has an important role in inhibiting and even reversing sunlight skin damage. Studies have shown that by applying the vitamin to the skin, it can be protected from sun damage and even restore the collagen and elastin fibers, repair existing damages and reduce pigmentation spots.
• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  This vitamin works in a different way to reduce melanin production: it inhibits the passage of melanosomes to the keratinocyte cells. Thus, it helps rejuvenate the skin, boosting cell growth, and providing moisture.

4. Rebuild the skin barrier

The skin barrier consists of substances produced in the skin, including sebum and other fats, and natural moisturizers. To restore the skin’s moisture retention mechanisms, use a quality product that contains a high percentage of water, in addition to other, sophisticated ingredients, such as amino acids, saccharides, urea and glycerin. These ingredients help the water penetrate the skin, be absorbed and retained in it, and they prevent evaporation of the water. Without these ingredients, applying the moisturizer is similar to applying water to the skin. Water evaporates quickly from the skin and even draws along more water that is already in the skin, and thus may further dry it out. If your skin is prone to dryness and a lack of moisture, choose a moisturizer that contains hyaluronic acid: its acts as a kind of sponge, absorbs the water and holds it inside the skin. Thus, the acid provides the skin with moisture and gives it volume, softness and elasticity, making it look smooth, taut and young. In addition, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in collagen production.

HL Laboratories developed a variety of effective preparations to rehab skin from sun exposure damages:

Dermalight series
This unique series is based on a complex of plant extracts, which works to reduce the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme, combined with kojic acid, azelaic acid, mandelic acid, vitamin C and arbutin. It provides a very effective treatment, which leads to noticeable results in lightening hyper-pigmentation spots, reducing age spots and melasma, preventing the formation of new skin spots and creating a radiant and healthy skin appearance, and with a uniform skin tone.  The series includes whitening preparations used by professional cosmeticians – including cleansers, peeling preparations, a professional massage booster, lightening serum, lightening mask and active lightening cream, as well as lightening preparations to complete the treatment at home.

Alpha-Beta Retinol series

This active series is intended for the renewal and restoration of facial skin, and enables really impressive results. The series’ professional peeling products are based on natural alpha hydroxy acids, extracted from fruit and milk, and combined with beta hydroxy acid and other active ingredients. The synergy between those ingredients facilitates very impressive and long-lasting effects, within a safe treatment, which does not cause skins burns or trauma and allows the patient to maintain a normal routine.

C-the-Success series

A series based on a high concentration of vitamin C, working to slow down the skin aging process caused by environmental and physiological agents. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, and it neutralizes free radicals, increases collagen production in skin cells, and creates a uniform and radiant skin appearance.

Along with the biological aging process of the skin, sun exposure and various environmental damages, such as climate, air pollution, smoking etc., also affect the skin and accelerate its aging.  Over time, skin damages accumulate and manifest themselves in skin appearance and texture. The skin suffers from dehydration and loss of moisture, loses its radiance and slowly becomes dull, yellowish and lifeless. Due to the damage caused to the collagen and elastin fibers, the skin also loses its elasticity. Wrinkles and creases appear, and the damage of the sun’s radiation causes changes in the dispersion of the melanin pigment, resulting in the appearance of skin spots.

Modern cosmetics have effective tools that can be used to renew the skin, repair these damages and achieve a younger, fresher and smoother skin appearance. The most prominant components/ingredients for this purpose are alpha and beta hydroxy acids and retinol. They now play such an important role in dermatological and cosmetic treatments that, in fact, it is difficult to imagine this field without them. Nearly 40 years of research have yielded many studies indicating the great effectiveness of these components in skin rejuvenation, in repairing age-related and environmental skin damage, and in being able to bring about a visible reduction of wrinkles and fine lines, and to improve skin texture and firmness significantly. In recent years, as research progresses, their additional effects on skin structure and function, in both short and long term, are revealed.

Alpha and beta hydroxy acids
There are two main types of hydroxy acids – alpha and beta. These acids are currently popular in peeling treatments performed by beauticians, and there is a consensus in the scientific community regarding their effectiveness. Both types of acids – alpha and beta hydroxy, work by peeling off the skin surface. However, each acid has its own unique mechanism.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)

Alpha hydroxy acids, which were initially used to treat excessive skin irradiation and other skin conditions that affect skin regeneration, have been proven in recent decades to be one of the most effective cosmetic ingredients in rejuvenating and restoring the skin, blurring wrinkles and lightening age spots. These acids are carboxylic acids, naturally found in milk, fruits and plants, including glycolic acid (found in sugar cane), lactic acid (in milk), citric acid (in citrus fruits), malic acid (in apples) and tartaric acid (in grapes). The most commonly used ones are glycolic acid and lactic acid.

Numerous studies examining their activity indicate that alpha hydroxy acids work on both epidermis and dermis. It has been found that when applied to the skin, they stimulate the exfoliation of the epidermal cells in the stratum corneum layer – the outermost layer of skin, by coupling and neutralizing the calcium ions found in the bonds between these cells. Reducing the concentration of calcium ions loosens the bonds between the epidermal cells and allows them to peel off, resulting in the shedding of dull and rough skin and boosting cell regeneration. In addition, the ability to bind and neutralize calcium ions between epidermal cells has also been shown to neutralize free radicals and other pollutants – meaning that alpha hydroxy acids also have anti-oxidant and anti-infectious properties.

In addition, these acids improve the function of the skin barrier and restore the moisture level in the skin. They can even penetrate the dermis layer, where they improve the quality of collagen and elastin fibers and increase their density, boost increased collagen and hyaluronic acid gene expression in the dermis and increase the skin volume. These effects significantly alleviate wrinkles, and improve skin moisture and other properties such as elasticity and tone.
 

Beta-hydroxy acid
The beta-hydroxy acid is also called salicylic acid, being a derivative of acetylsalicylic acid – the active component in Aspirin. It is very similar to the alpha hydroxy acids, and it also works to weaken the bonds between dead skin cells and helps in peeling and rejuvenating the skin. However, while alpha-hydroxy acids are water-soluble, salicylic acid is fat-soluble. This structure allows it to penetrate the skin through the fat follicles. Thus, in addition to peeling off the outermost skin layer, it can penetrate the pores and sebaceous glands, and peel the skin cells that accumulate inside the walls of the pores and normalize the activity of the glands. In addition, salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory and antiseptic features against bacteria and fungi. Therefore, it is used in preparations for treating dermatitis, psoriasis, and seborrhea (characterized by fat secretion) as well as in antibacterial preparations (in a concentration of up to 1%), and in exfoliating preparations for oily skin and for acne treatment (up to 2% concentration).

Retinol
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. The active component in retinol, and in Retin-A – another derivative of the vitamin – is retinoic acid. The functions of vitamin A in the skin are well known: it is an essential component of the process of cell differentiation, thus enabling the regeneration of skin cells; It increases the production of collagen and elastin which are responsible for the strength, firmness, and elasticity of the skin, and thus also affects the deep skin layers and contributes to skin firming. It also helps regulate the production of melanin pigment, and thereby helps treat skin blemishes and lighten pigmentation spots. Retinol can also bind to receptors in skin cells and cause them to behave like healthy, young skin cells.

Retin-A is FDA approved for the treatment of wrinkles since 1996, and can only be prescribed by a doctor, while retinol, which contains lower concentrations of active retinoic acid, is approved for use in cosmetic products and preparations. The great advantage of retinol is that when applied on the skin, it breaks down to retinoic acid that acts on the cells. Similarly to retin A, retinol makes it possible to alleviate wrinkles and laugh lines, skin tone and texture. However, these effects can be achieved only after prolonged use.

The Acne Simultaneous Treatment Method Using the ACNOX product line from HL Labs

HL Labs acne simultaneous treatment using the ACNOX product line

Understanding the complex mechanisms involved in the appearance of acne has led to a significant improvement in the abilities to treat acne conditions, and to new methods of treating the problem. HL Labs developed an innovative method that combines treatment on two levels simultaneously: reducing the infecting ability of the bacteria that cause the inflammation and, at the same time, rejuvenating and rehabilitating the skin and its natural defense mechanisms, that have been damaged due to the disorder. This strategy enables treating simultaneously all the pathological mechanisms involved in the appearance of acne, when the earliest intervention possible and an intense and consistent care can maximize the results at all severity levels of the acne.

The simultaneous treatment method is based on working with the ACNOX line from HL Labs – a professional line that was developed especially for oily-acne prone skin and acne vulgaris. This method has important advantages, some of which is most significant efficiency of the treatment, when the improvement in the skin’s condition can already be seen from the first few treatments, creating long intervals between breakouts, reducing the risk of causing post-acne damages already during the treatment, a friendly and safe user experience that does not cause severe trauma to the skin, and in addition, a comfortable and effective home treatment routine. All these contribute to getting results and to the patients’ satisfaction from the process and encourage them to stick to it.

Reducing the infecting abilities of bacteria and reducing the inflammation

Reducing the infecting abilities of bacteria is done by a targeted hit on their development. At the same time, the treatment is designated to reduce the inflammatory process that is being developed in the skin due to the reproduction of bacteria. These two processes are done simultaneously, using a combination of a number of ingredients:

• Rosebay Extract – An ingredient that maintains the skin’s balance, enhances the stratum corneum layer, reduces the creation of sebum and prevents its accumulation.
• Zinc – an essential mineral for regenerating skin cells and especially for sensitive skin. Zinc is an anti-inflammatory ingredient that prevents bacterial multiplicity that is related to acne, regulates the creation of sebum and strengthens the epidermal barrier.
• Extract of amino glycine acid – an ingredient that regulates acne prone skin, reduces the creation of sebum and prevents bacterial multiplicity that is related to acne.

• The skin rejuvenation is done using acids – the salicylic acid and the shikimic acid.

Skin rejuvenation

• Salicylic acid – the salicylic acid (beta hydroxy) is well-known for its ability to reduce acne marks. In addition, since it is fat soluble, it can penetrate into the skin pores and melt the dead cells that accumulate in them and clog them. Furthermore, the salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory activity and antiseptic activity against bacteria and fungus.
• Shikimic acid – a natural ingredient with anti-inflammatory qualities, that prevents bacterial multiplicity that is related to acne. This acid removes dead cells and regulates sebum production.

Rehabilitating the skin texture and strengthening the skin’s natural defense mechanisms

Simultaneously, for the first time the line contains probiotics extract, that acts for rehabilitating the skin and strengthening the skin’s natural defense mechanisms that have been damaged due to the disease, as well as vitamin derivatives.

• Probiotics – acts to protect the skin from infection and from disease causes, contributes to strengthening the friendly bacteria while killing pathogen bacteria and maintaining the skin’s normal acidity level. Many studies in the last decades have shown that treatment in probiotics inhibits the growth of the P- acne bacteria, and other pathogenic bacteria that are involved in skin diseases. There are several reasons for this. First, it has been found that they “catch” the receptors and in this way prevent the toxins from getting attached to them and infecting them. In addition, there is competition between the probiotic bacteria and the pathogen bacteria for sources of nutrition. Therefore, the bigger and more thriving the probiotics population on the skin, the harder it will be for pathogen bacteria to exist on the skin and damage it. Moreover, additional studies have found that specific species of probiotic bacteria, such as lactobacillus, extract protein substances called bacteriocins, that have local antibiotic activity against inflammatory factors.
• Retinoids (a derivative of retinoic acid) – a shape of Vitamin A that is biologically accessible to the skin. When used on the skin, vitamin A enhances the development of new cells and assists acne prone skin in healing itself.
• Niacinamide – a form of Vitamin B3 – a multifunctional ingredient that is essential for nourishing the skin, which among other things, represses inflammatory situations, regulates the creation of sebum and improves the skin texture.

Spots and pigmentation problems are considered as some of the most complex challenges in dermatology. in dermatological The good news is that recent years have brought about a revolution in the field, and there are innovative treatments that make it possible to achieve significant improvements. These treatments, some of which are home care preparations, are based on materials and technologies that influence the pigment production mechanisms very efficiently and in a relatively short time.

The appearance of pigmentation spots on the skin is closely related to the changes that occur in melanin, a pigment that determines the color of the skin. Melanin is formed by the melanocyte cells, which are located in the bottom layer of the epidermis. These cells produce small corpuscles called melanosomes, which contain melanin grains. As melanosomes grow and develop, they are transferred from the melanocytes through long extensions into cells in the epidermis (keratinocytes), where they swell and give the skin its color. One melanocyte cell supplies melanosomes to dozens of keratinocyte cells in the epidermis. The small packets of melanin pigment position themselves around the cell nucleus on the side facing the skin surface, thus protecting the cells’ DNA from the sun’s harmful ionizing radiation. Due to their unique structure, melanin molecules can efficiently absorb radiation at short wavelengths, such as harmful UV radiation, and they convert energy into harmless temperatures. In this way, they scatter more than 99.9% of the absorbed ultraviolet radiation as heat, prevent direct DNA damage, and protect skin cells and skin tissue.

The enzyme responsible for producing melanin is tyrosinase, which produces it from the amino acid called tyrosine. When we are exposed to the sun, the tyrosinase accelerates the production of melanin in melanocyte cells to protect the skin, resulting in darker skin. The problem is that the pigment particles are not always uniformly dispersed, and sometimes the pigment particles accumulate in a specific area, thus creating skin spots or areas of hyper-pigmentation. As exposure to the sun continues and accumulates, the spots and hyper-pigmentation areas multiply and become more permanent, severe, and prominent. Inhibiting the formation of tyrosinase in the skin can therefore inhibit the formation of melanin, thus influence the process of pigmentation.

To achieve significant results in lightening pigmentation spots, it is recommended to combine professional treatment with home treatment, using the DERMALIGHT series from HL Laboratories.

Mandelic acid
An aromatic alpha hydroxy acid with antibacterial properties, it encourages cell renewal and lightens hyper-pigmentation. As a result, the uniformity of the skin tone improves and it looks brighter and more radiant. An important advantage of mandelic acid is its suitability for sensitive skin and dark skin.

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)

This vitamin has a different mechanism to reduce melanin production – it does so by inhibiting the passage of melanosomes to the keratinocytes. It also helps to cleanse, moisturize, and rejuvenate the skin and boost cell growth.  

Arbutin
Arbutin is derivative of hydroquinone, a substance extracted from strawberry leaves, cranberries, blueberries, and similar plants, and, similarly to the other substances mentioned, it effectively suppresses melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase.

Alpha and beta hydroxy acids
Alpha and beta hydroxy acids enable achieving impressive results in treating sun damage and in rejuvenating the skin. These acids work by detaching the intercellular “cement” and allowing the peeling and dissolving of dead skin cells. As a result, the skin undergoes a natural regeneration process, and the peeled layers are replaced with new skin cells. In addition, these acids increase the production of collagen and elastin in the deeper skin layers, and boost the production of other important skin components such as hyaluronic acid.

Vitamin C
This water-soluble antioxidant, also known as ascorbic acid, is one of the major antioxidants in nature, and it plays a vital role in neutralizing the damages of free radicals to the skin. In addition, vitamin C plays a major role in the production of collagen and elastin and has an important potential in slowing down and even reversing sunlight related damages to the skin. Studies have shown that by applying the vitamin to the skin, it can protect the skin from sun damage and even repair the collagen and elastin fibers, repair existing damage, and reduce pigmentation spots.

This innovative and unique series is based on a complex of plant extracts, which lightens the skin, using various mechanisms. First and foremost, the complex includes tyrosinase-inhibiting components such as kojic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid, mandelic acid and others. By inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme, the series’ preparations delay the production of melanin, thus reducing the formation of pigmentation spots. In addition, the products in the series include antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, anti-inflammatory components that help to prevent irritation and inflammation of the skin, and alpha and beta hydroxy acids that yield impressive results in the treatment of sun damages as well as skin rejuvenation. This powerful combination creates a very effective treatment, which leads to noticeable results in the short and long run: lightening pigmentation spots, reducing age-related spots, and creating a radiant and healthy skin appearance.

Kojic acid
This acid is produced by mold fungi, such as penicillium or aspergillus, and is a by-product of the fermentation process of rice-malt or the production of Sake – the Japanese rice wine. Kojic acid inhibits the melanin production by reducing the effectiveness of tyrosinase – an enzyme that accelerates and boosts melanin production during sun exposure.

Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is also a tyrosinase inhibitor, and when combined with kojic acid, it helps to achieve faster results in suppressing melanin and reducing spots.

CC creams are one of the significant trends that have taken the world of cosmetics by storm in recent years. This is not surprising, as CC cream is a winning combination of several essential functions in one application and combines moisturizer, foundation, anti-aging compounds and maximum UV protection.

CC stands for Color Correcting and provides the skin even coverage and noticeable lightning effect. In fact, CC products have been described as the new and more sophisticated generation of the older BB products, which work to hydrate the skin and also correct skin tone and provide a uniform complexion.

While the purpose of BB (Blemish Balm) creams was to correct skin blemishes, and for this reason they were enthusiastically adopted primarily in Asia, where the ‘porcelain doll’ look dominates (and the initial consistency was very dense), CC creams are primarily intended to correct the tint of the skin, reduce redness, provide a uniform and smooth finish and a brighter and fairer complexion. Furthermore, CC cream formulas are usually less dense, and yet, they provide higher coverage than that of BB creams.

Moreover, the advanced formulas of CC creams are in fact multi-beneficial, which has several advantages:

1. Corrects the skin tone and gives it a uniform, smoother and brighter appearance – the pigments contained in these creams cause an immediate change in the coloration of the skin, providing full coverage yet a natural and radiant complexion.
2. Hydrates the skin and helps retain moisture – these creams work to retain moisture deep in the skin structure and reduce water loss from the epidermis.
3. Provides skin protection from the sun – These creams include sunscreens, which provide protection against UVA and UVB radiation.
4. Some CC products also include ingredients that give them the benefits of anti-aging compounds thereby fighting the free radicals that accelerate skin aging and help prevent wrinkles and signs of aging.

Age Defense CC Cream

HL Laboratories’ CC Cream provides four functions in one application. It provides perfect skin coverage, while also working to moisturize and hydrate the skin, delays wrinkles and signs of aging, and provides optimal protection against sun damage.

The pigments contained in the cream cause an immediate change in the skin and give it full coverage and a smoother, more even, and soft, natural and radiant appearance. The light, moisturizing formula allows for immediate absorption, gives the skin a pleasant, refreshed feeling and helps retain moisture deep in the skin structure and maintain hydration. Also, thanks to active anti-aging ingredients, including Gingko Biloba extract, Green Tea and Vitamin E. HL’s CC Cream also works against wrinkles and signs of aging and encourages skin rejuvenation. Furthermore, in order to provide optimal protection from the sun’s radiation, CC Cream includes sunscreens that provide protection against UVA and UVB rays.

For maximum adaption to skin tones and optimal coverage the cream is available in three shades – Medium, Light and Natural, as well as Glossiness which contains shimmer elements.